^Ao^ 




% .^v^ 



INDUSTRIAL EDUCATION 



OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION 

IN THE 

NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE 



By J.° V.'Lynn 



^^o^ 



__^ 




FOR USE IN 
PUBLIC PART-TIME AND FACTORY VESTIBULE SCHOOLS 



ENGINEERING EXTENSION DEPARTMENT 

IOWA STATE COLLEGE 

AMES, IOWA 



1 LIBRARY Or O. ■ 

I RECEIVED 

SEP 201922 

I DOCUrVtlZKTS c •- = 






OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION IN THE 
NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE 

Bv J. \ . Lvmi, Associate Professor \^)eati()iial Education 



I. INTRODUCTION 

Education is a four-fold i)rocess in preparation for full or complete 
livinii'. To be adequately prepared requires that the individual shall 
not he lacking- in any one of the four elements necessary. First of 
all there must 1)e health. Such instruction as will promote physical 
^\•('^LiM"ill,^ is the foundation. Ujion this foundation is laid the ability 
to earn a livelihood, so the second instructional process is prepara- 
tion to do one's siiai-e of the productive work of the world. Third, 
and perhaps the hu'ii'est in point of volume, are the social and civic 
relationships, the ability to live amoiiu' one's fellows. Fourth and 
last is the protitabh,' employment of leisui'e time. A well rounded 
education therefore includes the i)hysical, vocational, social-civic, 
and avocational elements. Each is required, and each should have 
a controllin.u' puri)ose within its own ti^ld. Physical education is 
concerned with ))hysi()ue and nothing else. Vocational education is 
concerned with intelligent skilled production, and that alone. One 
cannot usurp the i)lace of the others, but each is supreme in its 
own field. 

Having all this i]i mind, this study which lias been made of the 
needle-Avorking trade has the vocational elenunit as its basis. While 
recognizing the other three, it is not jiroposed to discuss them nor 
to include them as factors in this i)rol)lem. The i)uri)ose of this 
study may be stated as an attempt to provide instructional material 
for use in schools where girls are anticipating entrance upon or have 
already entered the needle-working trade. It is designed, moreover, 
for a local situation, and can only serve suggestively under any 
other circumstances. 

The local situation was found at Dulmque, Io\ya, where the public 
part-time school was faced with the problem of giving civic and 
vocational instruction to girls now working for the H. B. Glover 
Company, manufacturing an extended line of sleepingwear and 
overalls. In the factory there is also a training organization for 
assistance to ncAvly emi)ioyed girls. Mr. Harvey L. Freeland, State 
Supei-visoi- of Tra(U> and Iiulustrial Education, suggested the benefit 
which would come through a survey of the [)rol)lem along some 
definite lines, and bi-ought the matter to the attention of those con- 
cerned with vocational education at Iowa State College. The H. B. 
Glover Company, directly interested in the part-time school, and 



in the prospect of improvino- its own training school, kindly offered 
all its facilities for use in making tlie necessary analysis of the 
industry. 

Tlie survey was made witli the assistance of the part-time school 
teachers and the factory instructors. Officials of the company in- 
cluding foremen and forewomen were highly co-operative, making 
availai)le all necessary information, and checking the work to ensure 
its authenticity. Each department Avas visited and a skeleton draft 
of the production organization, was made with the payroll jobs in 
each department and the work jobs included in each payroll job. 
It was necessary, however to make a more complete study of those 
departments where girls are employed, and this was done pai'tly 
through conferences with the factory instructors, and partly through 
direct observation of processes. The conferences were necessary to 
establish a point of view and create a general concept of the instruc- 
tion given in making certain garments. When the conferences had 
accomplished this they had served their purpose, and thereafter the 
analysis of processes could be made more speedily and accurately 
l)y direct observation of the girls at work on the garments. By 
observation and questioning, a mass of information was obtained 
regarding garment-making in four departments. Additional in- 
formation was secured from foremen and forewomen, whicli lias 
l)een arrangied as a part of tliis study under general or common 
insti'uctional material. 

While the direct purpose of the survey was to assist in the solution 
of a local problem, it is felt that it can serve in a suggestive way to 
other part-time school ott'icers having similar problems in other 
industries. It will also be serviceable to heads of vestil)ule schools 
in the needle trade elsewhere, and may suggest to plant instructors 
of other industries a way out of some dift'iculties. 

II. METHODS OF PREPARATORY TRAINING 

There are two i)ossil)le agencies for training workers in the semi- 
skilled employments. The public may provide for it in certain 
cases where the community value is sufficiently apparent to receive 
attention from the public school board. It is here that the part-time 
school can serve as the particular agency in such training. If needle- 
work is suft'iciently important in the community enterprise, it is 
possible to provide special training for girls anticipating employ- 
ment in garment factories. These girls may be employed in various 
occupations, but have expressed a desire to learn power machine 
operating in order to change to an occupation with greater earning 
capacity. They may already be employed at junior clerical service 
in a garment factory, and meantime be preparing themselves at part- 
time school to master the operation of a machine sufficiently well to 
enter one of the making departments. In either case it is a part-time 



preparatory class in power machine operatin<>-, and the public school 
l)()ar(l would l)e serving' the interests of the community directly by 
meeting' the vocational desires of these younj^' people. 

Tlie second trainin<i' agency is what is called the factory vestibule 
seliool. It presupposes no i)reparation in advance of employment 
in some factory. The girl is hired to operate a sewing machine, and 
must l)e prepared to do so. Many factories place these novices on 
the ])roduction tloor and train them tliere. There are several im- 
portant ditficulties in successfully carrying through such a process 
of training. These may be itemized as follows : (a) learner is over- 
awed by speed and volume of work seen all around; (b) others are 
wholly engrossed with production so that the learner is very much 
alone at a time when a personal interest and a common prol)lem is 
most appreciated; (c) learners are so scattered that personal super- 
vision by the instructor is made less effective; (d) if instruction is 
a part of the forewoman's duty, the supervision is rendered still 
less effective because of the duties incident to production. For these 
and other reasons it is best to segregate learners in a training room 
until they have aecpiired sntt'icieiit knowledge about the processes 
and the iirm organization to take their place on the production floor 
as a unit in the plant and with an interest common to those already 
there. 

In the series of Training Bulletins issued by The Training Service 
of the Ignited States Department of Labor there are four devoted to 
the garment trade. All of these have a very clear and adequate 
description of the vestibule school, so that it is not necessary to 
enlarge this ]ioint. The purpose here is rather to provide suggestive 
material for use by instructors in either a public part-time or a fac- 
tory vestibule sehool. A word is necessary as to the organization 
for instruction. At the factory there is provision of machines, power 
and material with but little extra expense. Instructors are selected 
from among the most capable operators who may have at least a 
liking for the job, and possibly a "knack" of putting across the 
ideas required in operating a machine. These instructors, however 
excellent, are sericmsly handicapped by the fact that they are simply 
]>assing on certain skills in much the same way that they themselves 
were taught them some years ago. They have not learned the new 
trade of instructing, and are not aware perhaps that they have 
actually changed trades completely. Executives in the plant have 
little to oft"er in the way of suggestion for their interest and effort 
is in production rather than instruction. Consequently the vesti- 
bule school instructor is left to "go it alone," under the impression 
that because no one can give her any suggestions, she knows as much 
about it as anyone else and probably more. There are two points 
at which the vestibule instructor usually breaks dowm to a degree. 
The first is the failure to inelude sufficient teaching material in the 
outline of what should be taught. Probably there is not even such 



an outline in existence. This bulletin is an attempt to set up some- 
thing in the way of an objective. The second error is the impression 
that showing- and telling is teaching. Remedy for this lies in a study 
of the art and science of teaching. Instructors must be trained to 
teach just as operators are trained to manipulate goods in the 
machine. 

In the part-time school one of two policies may he pursued. The 
instruction given may include both acquiring of skill on power ma- 
chines, and the imparting of essential auxiliary information related 
thereto, or it may cover only the general facts about employment in 
the trade, the auxiliary information of a more general type regard- 
ing the materials used, and the story of its production up to the time 
it comes to this factory as raw material. Unquestionably the former 
is better since it includes the latter. Such a course of instruction 
will mean the installation of a number of power sewing machines. 
The instructor for this part of the work must be familiar Avith quan- 
tity' production on such machines, and it is recommended that the 
school board secure the service of some factory instructor for a 
limited time each week to give the necessary manipulative instruc- 
tion. The provision of sewing material must also be arranged By 
cooperation with the management of the company from whom the 
machine instructor comes, it should be possible to arrange for divert- 
ing certain parts of lot nund)ers to the part-time school for use by 
the instructor, who would l)e respoiisilile for them in just the same 
way as she would be when instructing in the factory. The auxiliary 
instruction may be given l)y regular part-time instructors who know 
the factory organization and have learned the personnel and duties 
which go with each position, together with such information as ap- 
pears later in this study. 

As indicated previously there will be two types of girl taking such 
part-time instruction. Some are already emx>loyed in the garment 
factory at other employments than machine work, and are looking 
forward to a change which will be in the way of a promotion. Others 
are emploj^ed at various occupations in the city, or are staying at 
home, but are anticipating a change of occupation in favor of the 
garment factory. In an eiglit-hour period of schooling per week, 
tlie time miglit be divided in the following way: 

Power machine operating 8 liours 

Auxiliary information 1 hour 

General improvement 4 hours 

If twelve girls desired to learn power operating, they could be 
accommodated with a unit of six machines if formed into two groups, 
A and B. Half of the eight hours would be required to segregate 
these girls for special instruction, while the other four of general 
part-time instruction would be spent in regular classes. The two 
groups would meet together for the auxiliary trade instruction, but 



would get tlieir macliine operating at a different time. A suggested 
schedule follows : 

First Half Day 

Group A — Machine ()i)erating 3 hours 

Group A — General Work 1 hour 

Group B — General Work 4 hours 

Second Half Day- 
Group A — General Work 8 hours 

Grouj) B — Machine Operating 3 hours 

Groups A & B — Related Instruction 1 hour 

This would mean that a factory instructor would he reciuired for 
two half-days of three hours each. 

III. VOCATIONAL TEACHING OBJECTIVES 

Before any body of material can be set up for instructional pur- 
poses, either in a part-time or a vestibule school, it is necessary to 
have very clearly defined aims as to what is to be done for those 
trained. Here are some Avhich might be adopted. 

1. To train the learner as a high speed operator of some particular 

machine doing a special operation. 

2. To train the learner as a skilled operator of some ])articular 
machine doing a number of operations. 

3. To train the learner as an intelligent, skilled employee giving 
full time to operation of some machine. 

4. To train the leariier as an intelligent, skilled employee giving 
full time to variety work on some one or more machines. 

These are each worth some careful thought so that they may be 
evaluated, for on the choice of ol)jective hangs a great deal of the 
success attained, provided its requirements are adequately met. It 
is safe to predicate that the first objective is more frequently chosen 
than any of the others, or that the methods adopted and teaching 
content used indicate such to l)e the result where probably no aim 
had even been formulated. It will be noted that three ideas dom- 
inate, namel.y, high speed operator, machine, and one operation. The 
instructor has in mind the minimum time and effort to approximate 
the aim, and considers the essential elements a machine and an 
operator to feed it with material. It presupposes an automaton 
whose only activity is physical like the machine. 

The second objective is an improvement upon the first in that it 
enlarges the physical effort to a degree, providing a range of dif- 
erentiated motions which themselves go through a cycle. Here 
again the elements are a machine and its attendant. 

The fundamental error in the assumption in both cases is that the 
individual is merely i)hysical. Man is a product of Mind, not of 



matter, and as such he is expressing ideas which are more real to him 
than any material things, because they affect his conduct with ten- 
fold more force than anything else. Man tights for an idea and 
strikes for certain principles which he calls fair play, justice, equal- 
ity, etc. So that to assume that an operator who is trained to attend 
a machine will do that and nothing more is a fallacy. She thinks, 
and unless her thoughts are wisely directed they may assume im- 
proper relationships and induce wrong conclusions. Fancies arise 
in lieu of facts, and seem as real as the true. Had the training ob- 
jective included ideas on industrial relationships, there would be 
much better satisfaction and increased earning power on the part 
of each learner. 

The third statement of an objective brings in the new element 
that the learner is an employee as well as a machine attendant. 
That is, she has human relationships with other employees, who as 
a whole form the personnel of the force from management down. It 
is an industrial team, not a collection of persons. They are harnessed 
together by an organization which demands that eacli unit pull its 
share. The learner in this case must not only l)e skilled, l)nt also 
intelligent along such lines as will be indicated later. 

The fourth aim differs from the third in that the learner is trained 
with advancement to executive positions in view. It may not be 
purposely entered at the beginning. That is, a learner might have 
been trained according to the third aim, but manifests ability which 
would make it advisable to train for the fourth. She would then be 
taken off the production floor and placed on a time basis while being 
trained to do a variety of work, and have an adequate jn-esentation 
of the problems related to that work. 

It is possible that management oft'icials will feel that there is no 
time for training in anything else than tlie l)are bones of the pro- 
cesses ; that it will cost too much to follow what looks to be mere 
idealism. Yet these same officers are spending far more in adjust- 
ing differences, listening to grievance committees, hiring and train- 
ing for an abnormal labor turnover than would meet the additional 
cost of more effective initial training. Ignorance is the l)reeding 
ground for a large part of the labor dissatisfaction, and when this 
has been opened up at the beginning, much grief will have been 
eliminated. 

IV. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONAL CONTENT 

With the purpose of assisting instructors who are faced with the 
responsibility of giving instruction preparatory to employment in 
the garment trade, the following outlines have been prepared. They 
deal with a local situation, and have been itemized from particular 
data, so that they can serve as a whole only for the schools and 
factory in this particular city. Elsewhere the material can only be 



a sn<>'<i'estioii of what mi<»ht be ]n'epared under parallel eiciimstaiices. 
Under this hea(lin<>' will l)e included those subjects which shouhl 
be taken up with every learner who is enrolled, regardless of wliat 
place she is to occupy in the factory or office. Every clerk should 
have a day or two in the vestibule school to get acquainted with the 
local organization, learn who its officers are, catch its spirit, get a 
good acquaintance with the factory program, and join the team in 
purpose as well as in letter. There is not any suggestion as to the 
order in which it is to be discussed because it is all classed as 
auxiliary information, and as such is simply imparted rather than 
taught. Instructors will I)e guided by the situation in hand when 
selecting a sequence of topics. The numerals attached to tlie topics 
are therefore only for identification purposes. 

Topical Outline 

1. The Local C(nni)any 

a. formed — years ago. 

b. Purpose (enlarge jiresent situation). 

c. fSet up standard of excellence (enlarge i)resent standard). 

d. Com])any organization and duties of (>aeh head (see chart, 

page 10). 

e. Function of each department in factory proper. 

f. Learner is introduced personally to each official with wliom 

she will have relations. 

2. Manufacturing costs 

a. Tal)le showing relation of costs 



I I I 

I Labor | Factory | 

1 1 



-Selling pri 



b. Prime costs include : 

(1) Direct material going into produ(d for sale. 

(2) Indirect material sncli as coal, oil, water, gas, ])oxes, 

crates, factoi'v olTicc supplies. 

(3) Direct labor upon product made for sale. 

(•4) Indirect labor including entire service force. 

c. Factor^' costs include : 

(1) All prime costs. 

(2) Factory supervision, as foremen, foreladies, superin- 

tendents. 

(3) Factory office lalior, as desk girls, label markers, 

clerks. 

(4) Interest on money invested in buildings, or rent for 

same. 



KJ 



COMPANY ORGANIZATION 



Oenerv/ Management 



Office Management- 
Mr. B 



3a/e5 Management 
Mr.C 



factory Management 
MrD 



3tvr65 
Mr.E 



Overa/I 

Mj33 O 



Cutting 

MrF 



Sleeping l^fleor 
M133I 



Childrenb 
5/eeper3 
M135H 



\6tock /3Dom 
MrK 



fb/d/ng 
MI33J 



3eruice 



U^lfare 
Mi3sL 



Machinist 
MrN 



Cafeteria 
Mb3M 



Janitor 
MrO 



1 




dchool 
M135P 












RDu^er 
Mr.Q 



11 

(5) Interest on money invested in machines, or rent for 

same. 
(()) Taxes, insurance and repairs. 

(7) All spoila<i'e and waste ot* <i'oods. 

(8) All desi<>nin<i' and experiments. 

(!)) Replacement of all machines as they become useless 
(dei)reciation). 
(1. Total costs include : 

(1) All prime costs. 

(2) All factory costs. 

(3) Salaries of ji'eneral olfice and sales force. 

(4) Expense of selling other than sfdary, as travel, etc. 

(5) Rent, taxes, insurance and maintenance of general 

office. 

e. All costs over tliat of direct material and labor are called 

overhead costs. A failure to see relative values is found 
in assuming that the making cost is the only one. There 
are many others which nuist be added to this, as shown 
above, and when all are included it will be found that the 
selling i)rice of the garment exceeds the total production 
cost by but a few cents. Get exact company figures to 
illustrate this in a series of examples. 

f. Profit means the balance or sur])lus which remains of the 

selling price after all costs have been ])aid. It is a rising 
and falling sum depending upon the amount of goods sold, 
state of the markets and amount of competition. At times 
there is no profit at all, and sometimes a real loss must 
be sustained. 
Markets and Competition 

a. Manufacturers can only sell when the public wants to buy. 

This want establishes a market. Business market de- 
pends absolutely on the wants of the people. 

b. When wants an^ nuule known there is a bid by two or more 

manufacturing firms to get the business. This l)idding is 
called competition. It means cutting the selling price 
to the limit. 

c. Price cutting means eliminating 

(1) Unnecessary or perhaps all lu-ofit. 

(2) Unnecessary overhead costs. (Local plant examples.) 

(3) Unnecessary factory costs. (Local iilant examples.) 

d. Necessary costs cannot be reduced. They include 

(1) Low^est buying cost of matei-ial. 

(2) Lowest fair Avage for labor, sui)ervision, office and 

selling force. 

e. Fair wages, hours and conditions mean willingness and 

teamwork, resulting in least amount of spoilage and 
waste, and largest output of product. 



12 

f. A sale order at a sliohtly lower price and more frequently 
made is better than a sale order at a higher price and 
less frequently made. (Local plant examples.) No sales 
mean no work at our factory. 
4. Capital Turnover 

a. Two meanings are given to the term. 

(1) Volume of business transacted in tlie vear. Example 

with an investment of .t(iO,0()0, $60,000 worth of' 
material w^as bought, made and sold. One turn 
over was made. 

(2) If the $60,000 total was reached by having only 

$'20,000 available cash, this being used to purchase, 
make and sell, then again purchase, make and sell' 
and again a third time, then the companv is said 
to have made three turnovers in the vear on a 
$20,000 investment. 

b. Company having two turnovers in a year can sell at 3% 

profit, and earn as much as it AV(uild with one turnover 
selling at 6% profit. It is therefore better for public, 
company and employees if turnovers can be made as fre- 
quently as possible on a small investment. Show why. 
Get local data for use on this topic, and enlarge as much 
as needed. 

V. COMMON FACTORY KNOWLEDGE 

This auxiliary information is given in addition to the i)recedin<'' 
material to all employees who are to enter the faetorv. It is some^- 
vvhat more specific in character so that the w^orkers have an immedi- 
ate knowledge which will not only serve them, but will help them 
know their place in the industrial team and fill it intelligently and 
satisfactorily to themselves. 

There is also a body of information which is required by every 
machine operator, irrespective of the particular tvpe of machine 
which she may be operating. All sjx'cial descriptions of machines 
foi- exami)le will appear in the detailed analysis of that part of the 
production duty in which such machines are used. All information 
whicli would otherwise have to be repeated with each machine has 
been assembled under this heading for convenience. Likewise with 
materials used, where all who are working with flannels, or caml)rics 
or pongees, would need to know the properties of each of these in 
order to handle them intelligently, it saves effort and time to cover 
this common subject matter once only. 

Topical Outline 

1. The local organization for production : 

Make a trip over the factory and point out main features, tlien 
discuss more fully in school. Study the followinu' chart. 



13 

Chart of Production Organization 



Cuffing 
Deparfmenf 



Stores 
Deparfmenf 



Cuf Parfs 

for all 

Garments 



Overall 
Deparfmenf 



Sleeping wean 
Deparfmenf 



Trimmings 
Accessories 



q: 



Children 's 

Sleeper 

Deparfmenf 



Pajamas 

PaJ unions 

Pajuneftes 

Nightgowns 

Nightshirts 

Fancy Shirts 

Bloomers 



Children's 
Sleepers 



Overalls 
Rompers 



^ Work Shirf^ 



Stock 
Room 



Boxed 
Garments 



Folding 
Departmen f 



Pins 

Boxes 

Paper 



The foUowin-' clescriptinii of the oi-anizatiou will add further to 
the uiulerstandinji' of the chart, 
a. Purchasing- Agent 

Material or stock is l)ought by (name), who is part of the 
office staff. Goods on arrival are sent to the stores de- 
partment for record and distribution as needed. 
1). Planning and Designing De]iartment 

Designs for i>arments are worked out m a division ot the 
general office. When a design is approved it is then de- 
tailed onto a deseriptive sheet showing quantities, kinds 
and sizes of various piece-goods, trimmings, buttons, etc., 
re(iuired. An order number or lot number is assigned to 
it, and the descrii)tive sheet is then sent to the store room, 
along with a master work chart and cutting ticket. Get 
these and discuss samides fully, 
c. Stores Department 

(1) Requisitions materials. 

(2) Receives and enters record of all materials. 

(8) Piece-goods (yardage) kept in stock room distinct 

from small stores. 
(4) On receipt of order from i)lanning department, 

(a) Enters order or lot number on books. 

(b) Sends master work chart and cutting ticket 

with piece-goods to cutting department. 

(c) Retains descriptive sheet. 

(d) Makes out size ticket for the lot and sends 

them to cutting rocnii. 



14 

(e) Removes from store l)y perpetual inventory 

system (deseril)e) all trimmings, etc., indi- 
cated on (c) and places them in a box mark- 
ed with the lot number. This goes to sew- 
ing department on re(iuest of desk girl when 
needed. 

(f) Kecpiisition boxes or cartons for packing the 

order when it reaches folding department, 
d. Cutting Department 

This is the department in which production actually be- 
gins. The large room is filled with long tables on which 
Avhole webs of piece goods can be laid up one upon an- 
other until two or three inches deep. A set of patterns 
is laid upon the lays and marked, then the cutters use the 
cutting machine to separate all the parts, following the 
lines very carefully. These parts are asseml)led into 
l)undles of twenty-four complete garments, and the neces- 
say cut trimmings and size labels wliich go witli tliem. 
Tlie tied l)undles are ticketed with lot immber and sent 
to the sewing room in wlieeled trucks. 
A picture of the department is shown in tlu' following tal)le. Pay- 
roll job means the name under which a given worker is identified. 
Sometimes this name indicates exactly what the employee works at, 
l)ut in many cases it does not, so tlie names of all the jol)s each 
employee works at are ]:)laced opposite the i)ayr()]l jol) to nuike clear 
just what duties the payroll jol) includes. 

Cutting Department 



No. 


Payroll Job 


Work Jobs 


1 


Layer 


Sort yardage, sort colors, check quantities, lay up. 


2 


Marker 


Select patteins according to master work chart, check yard- 
age, mark lays. 


3 


Cutter 


Cut lays with machine, trim lay^ with short knife. 


4 


Assembler 


Split into 24's, put in labels, put in cut trimming, etc., attach 




(Trimmer) 


job ticket. 


5 


Matcher 


Match stripes on parts of fancy shirts before cutter cuts to 




(Not a reKular 


pattern line. 




job) 




e, 


Transfer boy 


Distribute bundles to sewing departments. 



e. Overall Department 

For descri])tion see introduction to analysis of this de- 
partment on page 20. 

f. lSleei)ingwear Department 

For description see introduction to analysis of this de- 
partment on pages -42 and 5(1 

g. Children's Sleeper Department 

For description see introduction to analysis of tliis de- 
ment on page 65. 
h. Folding Dei)artment 

For descri])tion see introduction to analysis of this de- 
ment on page 74. 



15 



Machinist Departinent 

While this department is not directly concerned Avith pro- 
duction, because it does not handle the goods, yet its 
indirect relationship is very intimate because the service 
rendered is in care of the machines. A small shop is pro- 
vided where machines can be taken down and repaired, 
or adjustments made. The following chart indicates the 
service rendered. 



No. 1 Payroll Job 


Work Jobs 


1 1 Machinist 
1 

2 1 Belt boy 

1 


Take down machines, repair parts, replace parts, make ad- 
justments, install machines. 

Repair belts, oil shafting and motors, assist on repair work, 
aHiu-t liahts. minor service jobs. 



Stock Room, also Shipping Room 
This department receives the finished goods in boxes, 
cartons and parcels from the overall and folding depart- 
ments. The overalls are not wrapped, being simply tied 
in dozens. Goods are asseml)led according to orders re- 
ceived from the oifiee and prei)ared for sliipping. 
A chart of the (U'partment sliows tlic folb)\ving duties: 



No. 


Payroll Job 


Work Jobs 


1 


Stock Clerk 


Receive goods from factory, place them in stock room, pick 
out and prepare order for the shipping room. 




Checker 


Check order sheet with goods in shipping rocm. 


3 


Packer 


Wrap parcels and tie them, fill cases with cartons or wrapped 
bundles. 


4 


Receiving Clerk 


Record weights and numbers of cases. 


5 


Shipping Clerk 


Record shipments. 


6 


Helper 


Open empty cases, nail up cases, brush on addresses, load 
wagons. 



2. Materials used in factory production 
a. Denim 

(1) Used for overalls, work coats, i-ompers. 

(2) Bought in hab-s of 1000 yards each, tlie yaiubigc com- 

ing ill pieces of 50 to 60 yards each in length. 
Width, 28 inches. 

(3) Described in catalog as two-twenty, two-forty, two- 

sixty or three yard denim, meaning heavy, medium 
and light weight goods respectively, and referring 
to fact that there are 2.20 yards, 2.40 yards, etc., 
to a pound of cloth. 

(4) (^istomary in factoiy to refer to goods by lot number 

to which the siiecial kind has been assigned in de- 
scriptive sheet, as \-l()2, ()-2(i3, P-:1558, etc. 

(5) ^Tannfactiirers will guarantee only one bale of vat- 

dyed piece-goods to be uniform in color, hence 
when lot inunhers run s(>veral bales it becomes 
necessary for cperator to match colors, to see that 
each overall suit is same shade throughout. 



16 

(6) Some deninis arc washed in a solution of iron, wliicli 

when dried out h'aves tlie iron in the cloth to make 
it heavier. This iron is hard on sewinfj; machine 
needles, dullin<i' them rapidly. Remedy is to soap 
needle or use as fine a size of needle as will stand 
up against the drive. 

(7) Kinds used are plain l)lue. plain wliite, ])lain khaki, 

blue and white stripes. 

(8) Close weave makes the <i'oods somewhat stiff and 

heavy to handle. 

(9) Len<i-th of stitch. 10 to 14 to the inch. 

b. Flannelette 

(1) Used for Avinter sleeping' wear for men, women and 

children. 

(2) Cases contain 1500 to 2000 yards, 50 to 60 yards to a 

piece. Width, 36 inches. 

(3) Woven and napped on both sides so that tliere is no 

right and wrong side to the goods. 

(4) Variety is secured hy stripes of various widths and 

spaces. Stripes may l)e one color or composed of 
several narrow colored stripes together, forming 
a larger stripe. 

(5) Comi)osite strijies are two kinds. 

(a) Balanced, in which there is uniform arrange- 

ment of the narrow stripes on each side of a 
center line. 

(b) "One way" patterns, in which there is no sym- 

metrical arrangement. 

(6) In the latter case parts of garments requiring to be 

matched, like i)ocket pieces, can only be placed 
"one way" when attached. Balanced patterns are 
preferred. 

(7) Softness of the weave allows the sewing machine 

thread to siiik easily into the goods, so that length 
of sticli can l)e 14 to the inch and still do a good 
piece of work. Cottons and harder goods require 
16-18 stitches to the inch. 

(8) Much lint gathers on the macliinc ])arts when using 

flannelette, requiring more fre(|uent cleaning. 

c. Information similar to the above sliould l)e secured and 

given on the following : prints, eanibries, muslins, pongees, 
percales, nainsooks, jacquards, silks ,any other ])iece 
goods made up into garments. 

d. Sundry materials in store room 

(1) Folding Department 

Pins are Itonght in l)ulk in 5-11). boxes, 20 l)oxes to 
case. 



17 

(2) ()v(M'all Depai'tmeiit 

{i\) Patent l)Utt()iis. Bon-ilit in livcat iiross (12 
gross) paekaties, 2.-) packages to the case. 
Bnttons and tacks in separate packajz'es. 
Made in jajianned, brass, or nickel finish. 
Sizes measured l)y -'lines," a line beinti' one- 
fortieth of an inch. Two sizes, usually 22- 
line and 27-line, used on each garment. 

(b) Buckles, loops, snap loops, slides. Bought by 

double-gross or in barrel lots, bulk ; made in 
brass and nickel. 

(c) Elastic webbing. Bought per yard l)y 1000 

yards, in 50-yard rolls. Marked to order 
with firm name and space marks for cutting 
into lengths. Widths used are %", 1", IVs", 
1%". !%"• 1-^sed in straps or suspenders. 
Cut into bundle lengths of one dozen pieces 
by store clerk, and into separate pieces by 
operator. 

(d) Labels. Paper and cloth lal)els are printed to 

order with firm trademark and lot number. 
Sizes are stamped on labels with rubber 
stamps before being sent to cutting room. 

(e) Thread. White, black, olive drab and canary 

vellow colors used. Size of thread indicated 
bv number, and hyphenated with it the 
number of cords in the twist, 24-3, 36-3, etc. 
Eight hundred and forty yards of thread of 
any size is arbitrarily called a "hank"." If 
30 "hanks of a ])articular size of thread weigh 
one i)ound, then that size is said to be No. 30 
thread, etc. This is also called the ' ' count. 
Thread may be glazed (starch) or soft. Top 
thread (needle) is 30-3, soft, and comes in 
9,600-yard spools. Spools cost 10 cents extra 
over cones, but expense is saved in knotting 
trouble as it comes oft' on the machine. Bot- 
tom thread (bobbin or looper) is 36-3, soft, 
and comes in 12,000-yard cardboard cones. 
The way it is wound on does not cause 
trouble "in machine and saves expense for 
spools. Buttonhole thread is 56-3, glazed, 
for the Reece machine, and 30-3, soft, for 
Singer machine; colors black and bronze- 
brown. Buttonhole cord is a heavy black 
3-cord which is sewn in around edge of hole 
for reinforcement purpose. 



18 

(3) Sleeping wear and children's sleeper departments 

(a) Labels. Bought in 500,000 lots, 1000 labels 
to the roll. Trademark and firm name 
printed on them. 
(1)) Size tabs. Bought locally and printed in 
20,()()() or 80,000 lots with the sizes and 
classes such as "men's," ladies', boy's, 
l)aby's, etc. Tabs are stuck under edge of 
label when sewn to garment. 
(g) Thread. Top is 60-3 and 80-3, white, soft, on 
spools. Bottom is 70-3 and 80-3, white, soft, 
on cones, laibleaehed white is cheaper and 
stronger than bleached, and is used on flan- 
nelette where possible. Bleached must be 
used on cambrics and muslins. Colored cot- 
ton or silk thread to match is used on all 
garments of pongee, silk, etc. Buttonhole 
thread is 4()-(), white, on top and 70-(), white, 
on t)ottom. 

(d) Buttons. Freshwater native j^earl I)uttons are 

white opalescent. Japanese pearl buttons 
are yellow semi-transparent and higher 
grade buttons in every respect, and yet can 
be purchased at almost same price because 
of cheaper labor. Two-thirds of freshwater 
are used for the bulk of garments. The 
higher priced garments have Japanese but- 
tons. Ocean pearl buttons, highest grade of 
American make, are used exclusively on 
shirts. Sizes used vary with position on 
garment, being 18-line, 20. 22, 24, 28 and 
30-line - diameters. 

(e) Trimmings 

Mercerized crochet cotton, Nos. 3 (coarse), 
11 and 20, all 2-cord, is bought in bulk in 
Vo-lb. cones in white and all desired colors. 
Smallei- (puintities bought locally in balls. 
Used for fancy stitching on garments, like 
briar, wave, hem and shell stitching. Ex- 
plain jn-ocess and purpose of mercerizing 
yarn. 

Feather stitch In-aid (silk thread designs in 
white and colors on cotton braid 3/16" to 
%" wide) is frequently sewn on garments. 
Woven braids in two forms, bought bulk in 
gross yards on spools. 
Kik-rak is a zig-zag weave of silk thread 



19 

over a lieavy strai^lit cotton eoi-d, and is 
sewn (lireet onto <i'ann('nts. Coloi-s as de- 
sired. 

Ed<»'in<>' and plain braids in white and eolors 
for sewing- along' edges of garments 
Middy laces for pajiiiiions and pajuni^tes. 
Ribbons, plain and faney, white and colored, 
for knots, bows, etc. 

Elastic for bottoms of ]>ajiinettes and bloom- 
ers, with straight lining for covering same. 
Bought in 2-gross yard spools. 
Bindings, straight and ])ias cotton, for doub- 
ling over edges and sewing to garment. Bias 
binding is made by cutting piece-goods at an 
angle of 45 degrees in widths of about two 
feet and sewing tlie selvages end to end 
without overlapping. Special machine stag- 
gers the needle alternately across the joined 
edges. The bias strip is then rolled on a 
tube and sawn off int 
rolls. Edges are raw. 
Fringe is a narr(n\' cotton tape with silk or 
cotton fringe along one edge, bought in 
half-gross yards on a card. Used for sew- 
ing to ends of pajama girdles. Is cut up l)y 
operator as needed. 

Loops (frogs) in white and colors are bought 
111 gross-lots for sewing on l)uttonliol(' posi- 
tions on i)ajama jackets. 
E(iuipment 

a. Instruction about construction, operation and care of ma- 
chines 

(1) Principal parts of machine are: 

(a) Head, the sewing part, fastened to table top. 

(b) Transmitter, the power link, fastened to under 

side of table. 

(c) Control system, the foot treadles or knee lifts 

which start and stop action. 

(d) Tiiread standard, from floor or tabic to]), hold- 

ing two, four or six spools according to 
machine. 

(2) Principal parts of the head are: 

(a) Base, the iron casting supjiorting all machin- 
ery and attachments. Parts called bed, 
column and arm. Beds may be flat (regular 
type) or special (shaped to do special work) 



20 

as on huttoiiliolt', felling' or tacking ma- 
chines. 

(b) Main Shaft and llandwliccl. The shaft lies in 

the arm, witli lianchvlieel for hand control 
and belt lirooye at right oi- back. On Ihe 
sliaft are all needed cams to ehaiige revolv- 
ing motion into reciprocating motion. One 
cam operates a link down through the col- 
umn to the underside of bed, controlling 
feed dog and shuttle or looper. Another 
cam operates the needle. Other devices on 
special machines may l)e operated by cams 
or gears. 

(c) Presser foot is a smooth shoe which is attached 

to the bottom end of an upright sliding bar 
just behind the necMlle. A spring presses 
this shoe downwards to kvep the cloth 
against tlie surface of the bed. The needle 
usually is so placed as to work through an 
opening in the foot. It is lifted to insert 
cloth by a link or rod and chain to either 
a treadle or a knee-lift. 

(d) Feed dog is the serrated moving pai-t which 

comes np through the bed beneath the 
presser foot far enough to grip the cloth 
against the foot and draw it l)ack after the 
needle has been withdrawn. Its motion is 
compound reciprocating, first rising, second 
moving backward, third dropping, fourth 
moving foi'ward. The feed dog controls the 
length of stitcli, as its back and forward mo- 
tion can be shortened or leiigtliened by a 
stitch regulator. 

(e) Stitch regulator is an adjustment which alters 

the proportion of the link motion operating 
the feed dog so that it moves thr(mgh a 
smaller or greatei- spact>. In some machines 
the regulatoi' is placed on tlu' end of the 
main shaft outside the handwheel, and in 
others on the front of the column just near 
the bed. 

(f ) Tensions are regulating devices for controlling 

the "pull" or tautness of the thread, in 
which the thread passes between two plates 
or discs whicli have i)ressure upon them by 
si)ring and adjusting nut. One is on the 



arm for llic top thread and the oilier under 
tlie bed for the bottom thread. 

(<>■) Take-nps are the movin<>' eyeh'ts tlirough 
which tlie thread must pass, foi' tlie purpose 
first, of drawing' thread tlirough the tension 
as the needle descends ; second of slacking 
off thread for the looping operation indi- 
cated by the slight backing up of the needle ; 
and third, to take up the thread taut again 
as the needle rises. One take-up is on the 
arm, and the other beneath the bed. Mo- 
tions of both tally exactly witli that of the 
needle. There is no lower take-nj) on a 
shuttle machine, that action being pi'ovidcd 
in the motion of the shuttle itself. 

(h) Looper and shuttle. Two distinct methods of 
feeding the lowci- tlwcad to the needle. The 
shuttle is a revolving oi- reciprocating part 
containing a bobbin or spool of thread, and 
so timed as to pass its point or nose through 
the loop of the u|)p('i- thread wiien formed 
by the partial lowei-ing of the needle. Thread 
is wound onto the bobbins and put into the 
shuttle as required. In the looper system 
the loAver thread comes direct from the 
spool to the lower tension, through the take- 
up and into the looper, which passes i1 
behind the needle thread in exactly the 
same manner as the upper thread came 
through the upper series. Further descrip- 
tion of these mechanisms is impossible with- 
out the machine to demonstrate. 

(i) Bobbin winders on the shuttle machines are 
fastened to tlie table so as to receive motion 
by friction against the handwhetd. The 
thread passes througli a tension onto a bob- 
bin, which when tilled autonuitically throws 
the windei- out of contact with the hand- 
wheel. 

(j) Multiple-needle bar. Some machines sew two 
and three rows of stitches, by having that 
many needles in the bar. In these machines 
the looper system is used beneath the bed, 
so that either two, four, or six spools of 
thread are fed directly into the needle ac- 
cording as it is a one, two or three-needle 
machine. 



22 

(3) Transmitter 

(a) Purpose to transfer i)()wer fron* the line shaft 
and control its use or non-use. It is simpl}' 
a jack shaft on hangers under the table and 
guarded at all danger points. 

{})) Di-iven Pulley. Either a flat or grooved belt 
pulley connected with the line shaft by a 1" 
fiat or a round leather belt, and running 
loose on the jack shaft. It runs continuous- 
ly with the line shaft. 

(c) Driving Wheel. A grooved wheel fastened to 

the jack shaft and belted by round leather 
through holes in the table to the handwheel 
on the head. It stands still wlien machine 
is out of action. 

(d) Clutch and brake. By special device on side 

of the two wheels, called a clutch, the two 
can be locked together so as to run as one 
wheej. Momentum of the machine is check- 
ed so as to stop when the clutch is released 
by immediate application of a brake. Loos- 
ening the clutch applies the l)rake at the 
' same time, and vice versa. 

(e) Speed ratios. Machines are constructed to 

run at certain capacities, usually 2500 to 
3500 stitches per minute of continuous run- 
ning, and to maintain that speed always 
while actually sewing. With a mainshaft 
running at a certain known speed, and the 
machine speed known, only a certain size 
for each of the two pulleys of the trans- 
mitter will give the right speed. Two-step 
transmitters are sometimes made so that 
machines may run at different speeds ac- 
cording to tlie goods being put through. In 
this case tlie line shaft and driven pulley 
have each two steps (called a two-step cone) 
on which the belt may be placed. 

(4) CVuitrol system 

(a) Transmitter treadle. A foot tread linked to 

the clutch and Ijrake of the transmitter. 
Pressure of the foot releases the brake and 
cuts in the clutch. Removal of the pressure 
reverses the action. 

(b) Presser foot control. Already described un- 

der presser foot. Either a foot lift or a knee 
lift. 



23 



(e) All machines have si)eeial controls and ad- 
jnstments wliich can only be tanji'ht by dem- 
onstration (111 those machines at which the 
learner is to he employed. 

(5) Attachments 

(a) Folders. Very many forms for special duty, 

and only describable when actual part is 
present. They are made of thin sheet metal 
formed in such a way as to lead the edg'e 
of the cloth niuler the needle in some ar- 
ranged manner. Single scroll folders turn 
only one edge of cloth. Double scroll fold- 
ers work two edges together so as to form 
seams of various kinds and sizes. Double 
scrolls may be either right or left, that is, 
make upper side of seam face right or left 
of the needle. Fastened as a rule to l)ed 
just in front of the presser foot. Vary in 
weight and strength according to goods to 
be handled. Must be placed "fair" so that 
scam or liem is correctly under the needle 
Must be ill some cases adjusted for runs of 
thick and thin goods. 

(b) Combination presser foot and folder. ITsed 

for pleating work in shirts. 

(c) Gatherer. Works in combination with a 

double folder, where one part of garment 
must be gathered in as it is sewn ])etween 
two other hemmed edges. T^sed alone on 
any piece of goods. Operates l)y lever at- 
tached to bottom of needle bar. 

(d) Numerous attachments for special purposes 

described only to those who will operate 
them. 

(6) Needles 

(a) Needles are marked by numliers according to 
size, ranging from No. 2 (smallest) to No. 8 
for garment making purposes. The size of 



Needle 
Number 



Thread Sizes 



Cotton 



Silk 



2 


150-100 


000-00 


214 


100- 90 


00 


3 


90- 80 





3 Mi 


80- 70 


A 


4 


70- 60 


A 


41/3 


60- 50 


B 


5 


50- 40 


C 


6 


40- 30 


C 


7 


30- 24 


D 


8 


24- 16 


G 



24 

the eye has a distinct ratio to diameter of 
the needel, hence certain sizes of needles 
are best used Avith certain sizes of thread. 
A table is given to indicate this relation. 
{])) The method of setting- needles in the machines 
is the same in principle, but may vary 
somewhat in ai)plication on different ma- 
chines. A set screw is tightened against 
the shank of the needle after it is placed in 
a hole or a groove in the needle-bar Direc- 
tions which go with the machine indicate 
method of placing the needle at the right 
height to have the eye make the loop in cor- 
rect place for the slnittlc i)oint or looper to 
pass through it. 

(c) Any facts regarding essential shape or size of 

the needle for specific purposes should be 
taught. 

(d) Method of threading needle is a point for 

careful instruction. It includes how to 
shape end of the thread, how to hold thread 
properly, best method of passing it into eye 
and drawing through, best position of eye 
and light to strike the eve "fair." 

(7) Line Shaft 

Placed l)eneath a doul)le row of machine tables and 
serving two rows of machines. Motor drive con- 
nected usually at one end of line shaft. Safety 
precautions. 

(8) Threading machine 

(a) Upper thread. Each learner must be taught 

to thread her individual machine. The 
fundamental things about threading are that 
thread goes first through a guide, second 
through a tension, third through a take-up, 
and fourth through guides to needle. 

(b) Lower thread. In general, take out throat 

plate, remove empty bobbin, place full bob- 
bin and close shuttle, draw tliread through 
tension, turn hand wheel till needle brings 
up lower thread, replace throat plate. 

(9) Feeding 

(a) Underply must always be retarded and over- 
ply allowed to run through freely. Reason 
is that the feed dog pulls the ply next to it, 
while the presser foot restrains the upper 
ply giving a tendency to slide and pucker. 



25 

Only exception to this is when the inuh'rply 
is bias <i()0(ls, in which case it sliouhl l)e al- 
h)we(l to rnn through freely. 
(h) Simihii- instruction, with intelli<icii1 reasons 
ill all eases, on method of operating' when 
starting seam, turning corners, removing 
work, taekinu' with presser foot lifted, etc. 

(10) Oiling Machine 

All places re(piiring oil should he located and 
method of getting to them with oil-can demon- 
strated. The grease cup on the transmitter is also 
to 1)6 explained. Frequency of oiling is deter- 
mined by the need, and once established, every 
operator should conform to the schedule. All 
parts do not require oil with the same frequency, 
so that judgment as to when and how much oil to 
ap])ly is an essential teaching point. Garments 
may be I'uined by spattering, and machines may 
be ruined by burnt bearings. There is a proper 
condition which mnst be learned and maintained. 

(11) Cleaning machine 

The machine is the operator's friend. When treat- 
ed rightly it responds by increased earnings. 
Neglect it and it cannot serve so well. If factory 
rules retpiire that machines be giv(Mi a jieriodie 
cleaning, the ruling has been made in tht^ best 
interests of all. It should l)e observetl oidy as the 
least that might be done. Lint, dust, grit, excess 
aiid used oil gather and reduce earning power. 
Two minutes sj^ent in cleaning occasionally will 
return several times that in earnings. Learners 
should be taught how to clean, and required to 
clean their school machine, say daily, as a pre- 
liminary to ])eginning work. Each cleaning should 
be inspected and graded. 

(12) Trouble Shooting 

(a) Thread l)reaks repeatedly. Look for rough 

needle hole in throat plate, worn eye in 
needle, tension too tight or grooved, uneven 
size of thread, knots, snarls, etc. Remedy 
for each case when found. 

(b) Skip stitches. Look for cause of looper or 

shuttle failing to get through loo]) made by 
needle, or maybe looper tension is too slack, 
allowing more thread to come thi'ough tlian 
lower take-uj) can control. Remedy for 
cause when located. 



26 

(c) Similar instruction for all forms of trouble 
which may arise. 
1). Cafeteria and Recreation Rooms 

(1) Necessary description and rules as to its use. 
Routin<;' System 

a. General plan 

(1) Route of material from cutting' room to top floor 
thence by stages back to gromul tioor. Banks of 
similar machines installed on tables in number suf- 
ficient to <iet balanced i)roduction. Stationary 
bins at ends of machine tal)les and close to examin- 
ing tables for storing bundles between processes. 
Counter between tables and bins at which desk 
girls make records of bundles handled into and 
out of bins, with record of operators and processes. 

b. Methods of transportation 

(1) Trucks with racks or l)oxes for bringing stock to and 

from cutting room, and finally to stock room as 
finished product. 

(2) Shutes for passage fi'om tioor to floor. 

(8) Bundles carried by individuals to and from machines, 
examining tables, folding tables, boxing tables, etc. 

Card and Ticket Systems 

All lots and bundles are distinguished l)y cards l)earing desci'ip- 
tive numbers, and work cards for tlie ])ayr()ll number of each 
operator performing certain ])roductive tasks on the goods. 
Necessary instruction regarding these cards must be included 
li(M-e. samples of same being prepared for demonstration, and 
practice afforded in filling them out. 

Employment and training 

a. All beginners must be trained to ])roduce at a jirofit to 

themselves. From the first they should know that they 
are not profitable workers for themselves, and a distinct 
loss to the company. The piece rate earnings represent 
their real value to themselves and the company. The 
cost of training and any other wages than piece rates 
earned arc tlierefore given to tliem without any returned 
value. 

b. The eom])any considers that a girl cannot learn to earn 

profital)ly to herself at the piece rates under less than 
seven wrecks, and in order to be fair it pays a Ijonus or 
free gift in addition to the amount earned. The schedule 
of wages ])aid during the training jieriod is as follows: 

Week Piece rate earnings Bonus 

1st Record of bundles sewn and .$7.00 

2nd Record of bundles sewn and 6.00 

3rd Record of bundles sewn and 5.00 

4th Record of bundles sewn and 4.00 



27 

5th Record of bundles sewn and 3.00 

6th Record of bundles sewn and 2.00 

7th Record of bundles sewn and 1.00 

8th Record of bundles sewn and none 

Get actual figures of several cases to show constancy of the sum. 

c. Piece rate system is established to make it possible for 

girls to earn according to their skill. By it a certain 
price is set for doing a i)iece or unit or perhaps a dozen 
l)ieces. This jirice is established in as fair a manner as 
can be found. Two methods are used in setting the rate, 
each of whicli is intended to find the average speed of 
production and to set opposite that average a fair wage. 

(1) P]xperienced girls picked at random (say six) are set 

to work upon bundles of the same kind, and a 
record of the time of each girl is kept. This trial 
is repeated several times (say four) and the time 
of each girl is kept. The time of the twenty-four 
records is then added and a fair wage set for the 
time required to make twenty-four bundles. The 
piece rate or rate ]^er dozen would be one-forty- 
eighth of this amount. 
. Examples of these should be worked out as jirob- 
lems with actual data to show how it is done. 
Knowledge satisfies. 

(2) A skilled girl is jnit at the new work on a time basis. 

The amount of work which she does is considered 
to be 80'/ of what she will do when she gets up 
to her full speed. This amount which she has done 
is taken as the amount required to earn the wage 
for that time. That is, the normal rate is set at 4/5 
of a high speed day's work for a day's pay. The 
incentive will be to earn more than the day's pay 
by doing better than 4/5 of a day's work. 
Examples are needed to make clear how this 
method works out in actual practice. 

d. Relation of piece rate to turnover 

It is essential that employees get clearly in mind that 
quantity production affects the making cost per unit in 
a way that is frequently forgotten or neglected. If a 
company invests $150,000 in a factory to make garments 
and the turnover in a year is 100,000 dozen, it has to 
figure very closely on the making cost. An item in the 
price even as small as one cent ])er garment means $12,000 
difference in the making cost for the year. If the com- 
pany had been making 6^ on its investment and had to 
al)sorb such an amount it would mean that the 6% would 
be wiped out and a 2', loss on the year's l)usiness would 



28 

take its place. Hence the rates have to be considered 
carefully for Vs cents here and 14 cent there per garment. 
A series of questions taken from actual rates and with 
the company's actual invested cajjital sliould be given to 
drive this point home. 

Factory rules 
Every employee is required to conform to a number of 
regulations which have been put into effect from time to 
time as need arose. They were not made up arbitrarily 
at one time, and enforced just for the purpose of showing 
a desire to rule things. Every rule has a reason, and 
each employee should be informed before going into 
actual production what rules there are, and have a reason 
given for the existence of each rule. Furnish a printed 
or mimeographed copy for each employee, but do more 
than hand over a copy. Teach the reasons. 
There is also the matter of courtesy and general factory 
etiquette. Rules do not cover everything, and there is 
much which is left to the judgment and good sense of 
every employee in regard to relations with others. Many 
local examples of desirable conduct should be collected 
and discussed with every employee. 

Safety and shop hygiene 
Aside from such rules as have been made governing safe- 
ty, it is necessary to give some training in first aid and in 
general habits of careful action. There should be fire 
drill for the entire force occasionally, and every new em- 
ployee needs instruction on points connected with such 
driil. Some of this instruction will be given when in- 
structing about use of the machines, but there is also 
need for some time being given to formal discussion of 
principles of safety as applied in the particular plant. 
Upgrading and promotion 
Provision should be made for training girls provided they 
show ability and ambition to work up in the service of 
the company. A promotional schedule for such training 
ought to be worked out and the objective kept clearly in 
mind by foreladies, instructors, management ami tlie 
candidate herself. Systematic preparation for super- 
visory positions Avill surely pay for effort expended in 
this way. 
State and Federal laws governing safety, employment, 
workmen's compensation, liousing, etc. 

Interpretation of graphs and charts showing production 
records of quantity, perfects and imperfects, and otlier 
types. 



20 

VI. DETAILED ANALYSIS OF CERTAIN DEPARTMENTS 

Elsewhere it was stated that machine operatoi-s shoiihl he familiar 
with the construction of a garment from first to hist — not in the 
sense of being able to make it necessarily, hut so that her own part 
of the process may be properly located together with its significance 
and relation to those coming before and after. An analysis has been 
made of those departments where girls are employed so that these 
details might be available. The operations are described in such a 
way as might l)e called a Standard Operation Sheet, though that 
was not the purpose. They describe operations as they are now 
performed. This analysis meets two needs, first, as indicated above ; 
and second, to provide a basis for more thorough instruction on spe- 
cific operations by noting points which might otherwise escape at- 
tention. 

In this study there is no repetition of data wjiich is general enough 
to appear in Section V. In any job where such information is re- 
quired, .but is not peculiar to this job alone, the fact is inferred by 
the expression, "nothing s]H'cial" or "nothing additional." 

Overall Department 

Three types of overalls are made, namely the pant overall, the bib 
overall, and the one-piece overall. The pant overall comes only to 
the waist line. The bib overall is waist high at the back, but has 
a bib covering tlie eliest. Usually no jacket is worn with this 
garment, l)ut it mux be worn. The one-piece overall is a continuous 
garment, buttoning from neck to crotch. 

The making of a complete bil) overall may be described by stei)s 
as follows : 



No. I 



Payroll Job 



Pocket girl 
First part girl 

Seamer 

Second part girl 

Feller 

Hemmer 

Examiner 



Marker 
Button tacker 
Strap maker 
Buckler 
Sorter 



Folder 



Work Jobs 



Sew on hip and rule pockets. 

Hem side facings, put on seat-pieces, make and sew in fron' 

swing pockets, sew in fly, hem button side. 
Join backs together, join fronts and backs together at out- 
side seams, Join halves of bib together. 
Hem bib, make and sew on bib-pocket, join fronts together, 

join bib to front sew on backhand, tack outside seams. 
Join fronts and backs together at inside seams. 
Hem bottoms of legs. 
Examine all previous workmanship, check for defects in 

goods. 
Make fly (for first part girl), make buttonholes in strap 

tabs, make side opening buttonholes, make buttonhole 

for watch chain. 
Mark for buttons. 
Put on patent buttons. 
Make suspenders or straps. 
Put slides and loops on straps. 
Sort all overalls by sizes, tie dozens after folding, pack in 

truck for stock room. 
Put straiis on bib, fold, stack in dozens of uniform size. 



The overalls to be made up e()in<> from tlie cutting ro(»m in l)undles 
of twenty-fours, each l)nndle having in it all the parts which are 



30 

to be sewn toji'ether to make tweiity-fdur complete overalls. There 
is a tag' with each bundle to show tlie lot number, bundle number, 
and blank spaces for the payroll numbers of the operators who make 
up particular parts. Each l)undle is opened and the parts distrib- 
uted to those operators who have particular things to do on tliem. 
After an operator finislies her part of the work on each of the 
twenty-four overalls, the parts on which she has worked are tied 
into a bundle with the operator's number written on the card, and 
turned in to the desk girl, who makes a record before giving out 
the bundle to tlie next ojierator. 

DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 

In actual factory production the overalls are nuule l)y units or 
bundles of twenty-four pairs. The oi)erator does some operations 
singly. That is it is reiieated twenty-four times before the next 
operation is l)egiin. Sometimes tlie operations go in pairs, that is, 
it is best to do two of tliem on one piec- of goods while it is under 
the machine than to do only one l)efore proceeding to a similar piece 
of the next pair of overalls. Similarly it is possil)le to have oper- 
ations grouped in threes, fours and ])erhaps fives. There is always 
a great need for study to grou)) these operations in the best way. 
Where pieces are cut in ])airs, as in sleeves, with rights and lefts it 
is usual to go through an operation alternately on a right and then 
on a left or vice versa, until the twenty-four pairs of rights aiul lefts 
have been put through. 

In the detailed anal>-sis wliich follows it is not always possible to 
indicate exactly a factory process. The orders will appear as if 
only one pair of overalls is being made, but tlu' reader should be 
able to visualize the process with a "factory eye." 

PAYROLL JOB -POCKET GIRL 

Tlie ])ocket gii'l operates a two-needle machine, which sews two 
rows of stitches about V4" ai)art. She makes and sews two lii])- 
pockets and a rule-pocket onto the backs of the overall. 

1. Hem top edge of hip-})ockets : Put pocket outside on machine 

right side up. Fold %" under and stitch once across. 

2. Hem slanting face of rule pocket : As in 1. 

'4. Sew on left hip-pocket : Put left back in machine right side 
up. Place ]K)cket with top edge at punch-marks. Folding 
under edge in front of the needle, tack right top corner, 
stitch around jxtcket to left toj) and tack. 

4. Sew on right hip-pocket : As in 8, on right back. 

5. Sew on rule-pocket: Place ])ocket just below right hip-pocket 

even with outside edge of back. Folding in edges, tack and 
sew down and around from side-seam corner to lefl lop 
corner then aci'oss to]) to slanting face and tack. 



31 

Auxiliary Infonuation 
Trade Terms : 

Material — hip and riile-poeket i)ieees, hacks, \vhit( cotton tln-ead. 

Tools — two-needle tlat-hed machine, scissors. 

Operations — hemmin«i', t'oldin*!' under, tnrnin;^- in, separatinu', 

pairin<>', stitching', tackinji'. 
Location — top edge, right side of cloth up, slanting face, left 
and right side of garment, punch-marks, right and left top 
corners, below, outside edge, side seam. 
Stock: 

Recognition — ])lain blue, white or khaki denim, striped denim, 
A\'eight hy description on tags, all parts by shape, rights and 
lefts, Xo. oO upper thread. No. 36 lower or loop thread. 
Working properties — cloth is heavy and somewhat stiif for fold- 
ing, dulling and breaking needles frecpiently. 
Safety : Folding under and hemmiiig is done with fingers, Avhich 

are protected by a needle guard. 
Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing : None. 

Mathematics: Folding under %" by eye, si)acing pockets side- 
wise accurate to i/4" either way. 

PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
The first-part girl makes and joins together various parts of both 
fronts and backs of the overall, operating a one-needle machine. 
Most of the work is on the fronts, as the ily, swing pockets and fac- 
ing of side openings. On larger sized overalls the cloth is not wide 
enough to cut the backs out complete, so small triangular pieces 
have to be added to the crotch or seat. The cutters make small 
notches on edge of cloth at all necessary points to locate positions 
for joining or folding. 

1. Sew on seat-pieces: Put left back inside the machine wrong 
side up, placing corresponding seat-piece beneath it right 
side up, and seam edge extending out about %". Stitch 
once down and pull out the seat-i)iece from beneath into 
place. Move l)ack i)iece around to outside position on the 
machine, fold edge of seat-piece seam flat and sew down 
along the edge. Re]ieat with right back piece. Trim off 
ends of seams. 
L'. Hem side facings on backs: Put riglit back inside machine 
wrong side up. Fold over hem for side opening 1/4" wide at 
lower side notch and as far as notch on top of back. Stitch 
down from top and out at l)ottom i'(\*x(' of hem (edging out). 
Repeat \vith left back, sewing upwards from bottom of fac- 
ing. 
3. Sewing swing-pocket facings to di-ill : Put drill flat on ma 
chine, inside of pocket face up. Lay denim facing on drill 



32 

right side up with ano'ular corners and edii'es corresponding. 
Stitch around inner edge of facing. Make rights and lefts 
in pairs. 

4. Make button side of fiy : Place right front inside on machine 

wrong side up. FoUl over from side cut to notch on top. 
Turn in edge of this facing and stitch from top down and 
edge out at bottom. 

5. Make button liolc side of fly: Put h'ft front inside on machine 

w^rong side up. Fohl over from side cut to notch on top. 
Lay fly (see button-hole girl) over this fold with its folded 
edge 1/16" inside the lower fold. Stitch from edge at bot- 
tom end of fly up just back of the buttonholes straight out 
at top edge. Trim ofl extra goods at top end. 
(). Put swing pockets in fronts : Place left front outside on ma- 
chine right side up. Lay drill for pocket flat underneath 
with inside of pocket face down, locating by notches on top 
and side. Fold under from notch to notch to form oblique 
facing for pocket, and stitch down Vi" (a "foot") away 
from edge. Roll tlie entire front over onto inside of machine 
wrong side up. Fold drill over to form the pocket, match- 
ing notches at lower side seam (pocket now inside out) 
Stitch bottom of pocket from notches over to folded edg«. 
and tack at eiul of run. Roll the front over pocket back 
into outside i)osilion again. Pull drill pocket through itself 
to bring right side in, and at the same time bring triangular 
d(>nim facing into i)osition just beneath and squaring out 
the shape of front at oblique edge of front pocket-facing. 
Stitch across top edge of front and triangular facing. Lay 
button-stay wrong side up on the front at side opening and 
sew from top to bottom at edge. Fold stay-piece underneath 
front, stitching up to top near the edge and return a "foot" 
away for a double seam, tacking at bottom angle of swing 
pocket in process of last downward seam. Repeat with right 
front swing pocket. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Material — seat-pieces, backs, swing pocket di-ill, triangular 
pocket facings, buttonhole fly, l)uttoii-stay, white cotton 
thread. 
Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
Operations — folding under, folding over, hemming, edging out, 

stitching, matching notches, i)ulling inside out, tacking. 
Location — wrong and right side up, outside and inside on ma- 
machine, on to]i and beneath, right and left, side openings, 
a "foot" away, bottom angle of swing pocket, notches at cer- 
tain points. 



33 

Stock : 

Recognition — (Icniiii, drill, pni'ls hy shape. No. 30 upper, No. 3() 
lower thread. 

Workino' properties — notliiiii:' additional. 
Safety : Notliing special. 
Care of tools: Nothiii<i' special. 
I)rawiii<>' and Science: None. 
Mathematics: Measurin«i' %", Vi" «iic^ 1/1(5" by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— S3AMER 

The seanier operates a two-needle tlat bed machine with folding- 
attachment, to joi]i together certain ])ai'ts of tlie overall before it 
goes to the second stage of one-needle work. 

1. Join right and left backs : Place hacks in folder right side np. 

stitching from top to crotch. 

2. Join outside of legs: Put bottom ends of left front and back 

outside and inside resiiectively on macliine, right side up. 
Insert in folder and sew from bottom to notch at side fac- 
ing. (Side seams must always face back, that is, front?, 
always over backs). Similarly put top ends at right front 
and back in folder, sewing from notch at bottom of side facing 
to bottom of leg. 

3. Seam bib: Put right and left halves right side up in folder, 

stitching fi-om top to bottom. 
Aux iliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — backs, fronts, bib-])ieces, white and colored thread. 
Tools — tw^o-needle machine, folder, scissors. 
Operation — seaming. 

Location — right side up, fronts over backs, rights and lefts, 
crotch, bottom, side facing notches, setting folder fair, and 
forward or back to suit goods. White thread always in 
needle, any color for lowei' oi* looji thread. 
Stock : 

Recognition — parts by shapes. No. 30 upper and No. 36 lower 

thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety: Nothing special. 
Care of tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SECOND PART GIRL 
The second part girl continues with a single-needle machine the 
joining work which was interrupted by the seaming process. 

1. Hem bib : But bib inside on machine wrong side up. Fold 
over and turn in a %" hem, stitching uj) right side of l)ib, 
across top and down left side. 



34 

2. Hem toi) and watch sides of bib-poeket : Lay iiocket outside on 

machine wrong side up. Fold top and watch side over and 
stitch along edge returning a "foot" away. 

3. Sew pocket on bd) : Put l)ib in machine right side up, and 

place pocket in ])osition on left half. Turn in edge opposite 
watch side, tacking at tn\) then sewing down and around 
bottom to bottom of watch opening, and finishing with a 
tack. Return a "foot" away for double seam to lower 
back corner. Stitch obliquely up the back edge to a 1" 
opening between steams, forming a pencil pocket. Tack top 
of pencil-pocket seam and also at top of watch opening. 

4. Tack top of side steams : Put garment in machine right side 

ui), making a cross tacking at bottom of each side opening. 

.■). Join fronts at bottom of fly: Lay i)arts right side up with 
right inside and left outside on machine. Lay buttonhole 
side over button side in position and turn in edge below fly 
to icrotch. Sew up edge of turned in part %" onto fly. 
Make a 1" cross tacking. Break tliread and return to crotch 
on wrong side, width of foot from edge. 

(). .Join bil) to front: Put garment in machine right side up, lay- 
ing buttonhole side of fly over button side in position. Stitch 
across top of fly. Lay bib on top of garment wrong side up 
with joining edges even. Put bib facing under garment 
wrong side up, that is, with the tliree layers lying edges 
even and like sides of cloth together. Join three layers to- 
gether across top edge from right to left. Turn bib over 
into position and sew back a ' ' foot ' ' aAvay from left to right 
side. Turn garment over with wrong side up. Fold over 
bib-facing into position and trim ends. Turn in edges of 
bib-facing at ends and along top, sewing with a single seam 
around edge. 

7. Join backhand t(» overalls: Lay two halves of backhand in 
macliine right sides together and sew once across. Open 
ov^t full length and flatten seam edges. Put back of garment 
in machine wrong side up and lay back band over it wrong- 
side up wath top edges even. Stitch once across. Fold back- 
band over into position. Turn garment right side up in ma- 
chine and fold backhand over to cover last seam. Turn in 
ends and lower edge and sew all around four edges of back- 
band. When within about 6" of right end of backhand in- 
sert label under foot and sew once around it before com- 
l)leting seam. 
Auxiliary Information 

Trade Terms : 

Materials — l)ib, bib-pocket, bib-facing, partly assembled overall 

or garment, backhand, label, white thread. 
Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 



35 

OptTjit ions - licimniii^', foldiiiu- over, t iii'iiiiii;' in. Ijickiiit:', scw- 

in<i', Iriiinnin.u', joiniiiLi'. 
Location — rijiht iuul wroiiii' side np, like sides toLi-etliei', outside 
and inside on nuudiiiic, a "foot" away, walcli side, biittonliole 
side, l)utt()n side, top and bottom of fly, over and nnderneath, 
ci-oteli, backhand, riiilit and left. 
Stock : 

Reco<inition — all ])arts l)y shapes, No. :i() uppei' and Xo. ."!() bob- 
bin thread. 
Workinfi' properties — nothiniz' additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing- special. 
Drawinij' and Science : None. 
Mathematics: Measurinji' %", •;4" and 1" by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 

The fellinii' uirl operates a special two-needb' machine made with 
its sewing- head extendiiiu' forward towards the operator, and clear 
of the table tdge about twelve inches, thus making clearance for 
imshing closed-in ])arts like b'gs or sleeves back past the needle 
where they may gather aronnd the arm-like bed. There is a folder 
attachment which turns in the goods one side over the other. The 
job is confined to closing in legs, sleeves and bodies of garments. 
1. Put inside edges of bottom of right leg in folder right side out 
(always fronts over backs), and stitch tlirongh to crotch and 
continue down left leg to bottom. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials-— garment, white and black or khaki ihrt-ad. 
Tools — felling machine, folder, scissors. 
Operations — felling. 

Location — right and left, bottom, crotch, right side out. AVhite 
thread in needle, any color for lower or loop thread. 
Stock: 

Recognition — garment, No. .']() up])er. No. o(i lower thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL .JOB— HEMMER 

The hemming girl ojierates a one-needle special machim> whicli 
has a head j)ointing forward in advance of the table allowing the 
ovei'all leg to be pushed easily into jilace under the needle. A spe- 
cial foldei- attachment turns in the bottom once then once again. 
, 1. Hem bottoms of overall : Place bottom of leg of garment 

around bed. Put upper side into the folder and sew once 

ai'ound. Repeat with other leg. 



36 

Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — overall, white thread. 

Tools — one-needle special machine, scissors. 

Operations — hemming. 

Location — bottdm of overall le<^'. 
ytock : 

No. 30 upper and No. 36 bobbin thread. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing- special. 
Drawiniz', Science and Mathenjatics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 

The examiner insi)ects all ])revi()us worknuinsliip on the overalls. 

1. Measure inseani to check len<i-th of leg- with label. 

2. Examine for straight seams, taekings, run-offs, raw edges, skip- 

stitches on side facings, outside and inside seams and bottom 
finish. Check even lengtli of Itack and front of side oi)en- 
ings. 

3. Examine outside as in 2 on joining seams, fly, swing pockets, 

l)il) and bib-pocket. 

4. P]xamine inside as in 2 on fly, joining seam, seat pieces, 1)il)- 

facing, l)ack seams and backhand. 
T). Examine outside as in 2 on hip and rub^-i^ockets, seat-i)ieces, 
back seam, backhand and label. 

6. Measure waist size to check with label. 

7. Snip all ravels and odd thread ends wliile in jirocess of exaniin- 

ing 2-5 al)ove. 

8. Chalk mark all repair woi-k to l)e repaired and send to oper- 

ators to repair. 
!). Examine for tears or cuts, thin spots or otlier defects in goods. 
Stamp label on defective garments as "seconds." 
10. Re-examine all returned repaii- work. 
Auxiliary Information. t 

Trade "Terms: 

Materials — overalls, all i»;uis by name. 

Tools — yard-scale on edge of examining table, scissors, tailor's 

chalk, rubl)er stamp and pad. 
Operations — Examining, inspecting, checking, chalking, stamj)- 

ing, placing in repair box. 
Location — All parts l)y name. 

Special — Run-olfs, ski]) stitclies, raw edges, thin spots, straight 
seams, lie even. 
Stock : 

RecogJiition — Parts diffei-ing in color by vai-yiiig shades of blue 

or khaki, weight of goods by its thickness. 
Working properties — None. 
Safetv and Care of Tools : None. 



37 

Drawing' and Rcienco..: None. 

Malliciiialics : Measuring' on yiwd stick in iiiclics. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The buttonhole pirl has three separate jobs to perform on the 
overalls. She prepares the button-side of fly for the first part girl. 
She also puts buttonholes in the tabs of the suspender straps after 
they are made but before they <i'o to the bucklers. Lastly she puts 
all needed buttonholes in the overall itself. The buttonhole machine 
is a special, which sews all around *where the hole is to be then cuts 
the cloth. Some machines have a cording- attachment which re- 
inforces the edge of the hole with a heavy black cord bound inside 
of the stitching. Holes are reinforced at side openings, on strap- 
tabs, and for watch chain in bib, but the fly buttonholes are not 
reinforced (done on a smaller machine). All machines make what 
is called a pearl stitch, using number 30 thread. 

1. Make buttonholes in fly: Fold goods over lengthwise right 

side out, with upper edge lying 14" inside the lower. Turn 
fly over and mark tiie first of the lot with a gauge according 
to its size for number and position of holes. (Others of that 
size need not be marked.) Place in machine folded edge 
first, marked side up and make the three or four holes in 
series. 

2. Make strap-tab buttonholes : Place tab end of suspender end- 

wise into machine and make hole in center of the goods. 

3. Make buttonholes on overall : Set garment in machine right 

side up at desired ])ositioii, making lioles in the following 
order — two at right side (>])ening, one in bib for watch chain, 
two at left side oix-ning. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials— overalls, strains, buttonhole flys, reinforcing cord, 

No. 30 thread in needle and bol)bin. 
Tools-Especial buttonhole machines, scissors, marking gauges. 
Operations — folding over, nuirking, stitching holes. 
Location — side ojx'nings, bil) t<ip, strap tabs. 
Stock : 

Recognition — lot numbers by sizes. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing : Marking at notches in gauge. 
Science : None. 

Mathematics: Spacing holes by eye, correct to 14" on % aii(^ 
side openings, and to Ys" on ends of backhand. 



PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 

The marker locates positions for buttons in advance of the patent 
l)nttou tacker. 

1. Mark fly: Lay ov<-rall on table fi'ont side down, and turn 

baekband down to ex])ose inside of fly. Turn ediie of button 
side back over far enough to show part of bnt1onhol(>s. Chalk 
button side opposite each hole. 

2. Mark side ojienings : Replace backhand and straighten gar- 

ment out fiat. Mai-k for button at middle of side openings. 
Band buttons nt>ed jione. 
Auxiliary Information 
T]-ade Terms : 

Matei-ials -ovei-alls. 
Tools — tailor's chalk. 

Operations — laying out Hat. folding Itack, mai-king. 
Location — button and buttonhole sides of iiy, side openings^ 
baekband. 
Stock: Nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Di'awing : Markiiig positions with chalk. 
Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON TACKER 
The button girl operates a patent tack button machine which 
l)ushes the metal tack part of the button up through the cloth and 
clinches it inside the button i)roi)er. It can-ies magazines and dies 
for two sizes, smaller ones for the fly and a larger size for sides 
and suspenders. The magazines, called cu]»s or turrets, are in 
pairs, one feeding tacks and the other buttons down through tlie 
ways to the dies. 

L Put on fly buttons: Place front of button side u\) in machine 
on small size die. Set according to mark and press treadle, 
repeating at required luimber of marks. 
2. Put on side and suspender buttons : Put overall under large 
size die right side up, attaching buttons in the following or- 
der : two at opposite corners of bib, two at left side open- 
ing, two on backhand for suspenders, two at right side open- 
ing (all but lower side buttons i)ut on without nuirks). 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade 'Terms: 

Materials — overalls, buttons and tacks. 
Tools — special patent button tacker. 
Operations — tacking. 
Location — as in 2 above. 
Stock : 
Recognition — buttons and tacks, each in separate cartons, sizes 
indicated by "lines," as 22-line or 27-line buttons. 



Workiii;^' |)i-()|)cr1it'.s -Imlloiis jam in dies aiid miss liitliii«j,' fair. 
Safety: Tse a wii'c lo fisli out jammed hiillons. P\dl off (hd'ee- 

live buttons with pliei-s and noteiied sleel plale. 
Care of Tools: Clian.uc dies for different kinds of l.ullons. 

Drawing' and Seienee: None. 
Mathematics: Spaeinj^' hnltons hy eye eon'eel lo ' |" for sus- 
penders, l/Ki" foi- ends of hihdxdt, and exactly on side marks. 

PAYROLL JOB— STRAPMAKER 

The strapmaker works uj) tlie suspenders completely with excep- 
tion of buttonholes and wire slides and loops. She opei-ates a one- 
needh^ machine. 

1. -loin web and tab: ( 'u1 (dastic web into hMi<<tlis. Lay tab- 

piece insicb' on ma(dnin\ wi-ong' si(h' uj) and fohl over %" of 
outside edge. Lay end of web on tins fold %" from far 
coi'uer and ta(d< the two touethei'. l^'old ovei- nearest ed«i'e 
to far ed<i'e, swiiiLi' tab into outside position on matdiine and 
sew aci'oss to •;s" from edt-c. T>irn in edges of both \ipper 
and lower layers of tab then complete stitching. Turn in 
side edges to end of tab and sew till %" from bottom end of 
tab. Turn in both layers of l)ottom end and comi)l('te stitch- 
ing around and up folded edge to web. 

2. Make straps and join to web: Place strai) on machine \vrong 

side up. Fold over lengthwise as far as side cut for strap 
part. Turning in edges of botli upper and lowau* layers along 
side and at end, sew all arouiul the double portion of strap. 
Fold over opi)osite end of remaining i)art '■%<", 1^7 ^ree end 
of web over it ami tack the two together. Rei)eat with an- 
other stra}), forming right and left of a paii". 
o. -loin sti-aps together: Lay a ])air one over the othei- right sides 
together, and stitch the joining i)arts togethei- in line with 
folded edge of sti-ap and tab. Pull out Hat and laj^ wrong 
side up. Lay facing piece right side up over the joining 
seam. Turn in all four edges of facing and sew all around to 
cover seams and complete the joining. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — elastic webs, top ])ieces, strap-])ieces, facing-piece. 

No. 30 and 36 white thread. 
Tools — one-needle flat-top machine, scissors. 

Operations — separating, tacking, folding over, turning in, stitch- 
ing. 
Location — right and left, joining part, right and wrong sides 
up, No. 36 thread in bobbin. 
Stock : 

Recognition — elastic web in lengths of a dozen pieces trade 



40 

marked and spotted for separating' with scissors, (dotli parts 
by name and shape. 
Workin<>' properties — notliin^' spf^eial. 
Safet}' and Care of Tools: Notliintz- special. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics : Measnring %" hy eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUCKLER 

The buckle girl adds the wire loops and slides to suspender straps 
after they have come from the huttonholer. T)ie loop is the part 
which hooks over the bib-button, and the slide is foi- adjusting length 
of strap. 

1. Put on slides and loops : Draw 10" or 12" of strap end through 
slide over middle bar and about (i" back tlirough slide again. 
Put loop over free end of strap. Put this end up inside over 
middle bar of slide and back inside belov/ it with i/o" free 
end. Draw outer i)art of str.-ip down through slide to hold 
free end in ])lace. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — straps, slides, loops. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — drawing through, sliding on. 

Location — over and umler middle bar of slide, inside and out- 
side strap. 
Stock : 

Recognition — strai) end of susi)eiuler, loops and slides in cartons. 
Working properties — straps stiff to ])ull tlu'ough. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing and Science: None. 
Mathematics: Measuring 10" or 12", (i" and Vl>" I'y fJ^- 

PAYROLL JOB— SORTER 

The sorter may have two duties, the main one of sorting coming 
first in preparation for the folders, and the second, tjdng up bundles, 
following after the folders are through. If work is coming through 
in large volume this job may be divided on that l)asis so that the 
sorter would be confined to the one operation only. It follows after 
the button tacker is through. 

1. Sorting overalls by sizes: Bring lots from bins to sorting 

table. Sort by Avaist-size and leg-length mmdx'rs on label. 
Pile in stacks by sizes for folders. 

2. Tie in dozens after folders : Hang a bunch tie strings about 

neck. Place string around dozen near one end, slipping end 
through the wire loop and drawing tight. Pull end into 
grip of the wire loop and put a half loop on to hold. Pack 
tied dozens in elevator truck. 



41 

Auxiliary Iiifonuation 
Trade Tei-ms: 

Materials — overalls. 

Tools — tyin^' strings. 

Operations — sortiii;^', stacking', t\iii<^', i)aekiii<i'. 

Loeation — sortin.u', staekiii.u' and f()l(liii<>' tables. 
Stock : 

Recofinition — label numbers indicatin<>' first waist size and sec- 
ond leng-th of leg- in inches, as 40-31, 40-32, 38-32, 36-33, etc. 

Working properties — nothing. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing and Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— FOLDER 

The folder, as the name indicates, arranges the overall into neat 
and compact shape for packing, so folding it that the lal^el sewn to 
the right end of backhand is easily seen by those handling the gar- 
ment afterwards. 

1. Folding: Lay overalls flat on table front n\). Button strap 
tabs to bib, and fold both under at belt line inside the gar- 
ment. Fold right side to left side bringing label on top. 
Reverse with label below and fold bottoms to belt. Stack in 
dozens of uniform size, half of stack being placed end for end 
to balance its shape. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — overalls, suspender straps. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — l)uttoning, folding, counting, checking sizes. 
Location — inside, front down, front up, end for end. 
Stock: Nothing additional. 

Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics : Counting in half and full dozens. 

Sleeping Wear Department 

The slee]iing garments for adults are made exclusively in this 
departmeiit, which is the most extensive from standpoint of quantity 
and variety of product. Four main types of garment are made, 
nightgowns and shirts, pajama suits, pajunions, and pajunettes. 
Some special garments are made such as heavy woolen, hooded, out- 
door sleeping gowns, but these form a negligible item. In addition 
to the different sizes in the four main lines, there are very many 
varieties and designs of finish, so that operators are provided with a 
great many changes. During the winter season the factory works 
on summer varieties of sleeping garments, and the summer is spent 



42 

in working up next winter's supply of flannel garments. In all there 
are some 125 varieties of sleeping garments to make, ranging from 
the extremely plain to the most ornate. 

Ladies' nightgowns, men"s niglitsliirts, and pajamas are familiar 
enough to need no delining. Tlie j^ajniiioiis and i)ajunettes are fancy 
styles of ladies' sleeping wear made somewliat after the fashion of 
the men's pajamas. The pajunion is a union of the pajama jacket 
and i)ants into one garment, the joining being made at the waist, 
and the jacket extending down around the l)ody for 8" or 10" out- 
side. The pajunions are simply hemmed at the bottoms. Pajunettes 
are the still more ornate styles, made in one piece, without the 
jacket effect, and having elastic inserted at the bottoms, or being 
completely footed. Various special machines are in use for briar- 
stitching, hemstitching, wave-stitching, and the use of braid and 
ribbons for trimming extends the scope of the department to an 
unlimited degree. 

Winter garments are made almost exidusively of flannelette in 
white, pinks and blues, either plain oi- with woven stripes of differ- 
ing shades and colors. Summer garments are made from prints, 
cambrics, silks, satins, soisetTe and oilier trade names for i)roducts 
of cotton and silk. 

The cut goods come from the cutting room in l)undles of twenty- 
four. All accessory materials like l)raid, ribbon, loops, buttons, etc., 
are lu'ought in boxes or crates from the stores department where 
tliey W(M-e assend)led according to tlie descri])tive sheet ready for 



No. 


Payroll Job 


Work .Job3 


1 


Girdle maker 


Pants — Make girdles. 
Jacket— 0. 




2 


Seamer 


Pants — make outseams, sew on seat-pieces, joii 
Jacket-- 0. 


1 backs. 


3 


First part girl 


Pants — Hem or tassel ends of girdle, make fly, hem top. join 






fronts. 








Jacket — Make yoke and neck-facings, sew on 


pocket, join 






shoulders, sew on yoke, hem fronts. 




4 


Sleeve piecer 


Pants— 0. 

Jacket -Join sleeve-pieces. 




5 


Sleeve maker 


Pants— 0. 

Jacket— Sew on cuffs, tack at wrist. 




6 


Examiner 


Pants — Inspect previous workmanship. 
Jacket — Inspect previous workmanship. 




7 


Bundle boy 


Pants — 0. 

Jacket— ^latch sleeve and body bundles. 




8 


Sleever 


Pants— 0. 

Jacket — Join sleeves to body. 




9 


Feller 


Pants— Fell inseams. 

Jacket — Fell sleeves and sides. 




10 


Marker 


Pants — Mark for fly buttons. 

Jacket — Mark for buttonholes, mark for buttons 




11 


Loop girl 


Pants— 0. 

Jacket — Sew loops or frogs on front. 




12 


Hemmer 


Pants — Hem bottoms. 
Jacket — Hem bottom. 




13 


Examiner 


Pants— 0. 








Jacket — Inspect sleeving, felling, hemming, and 


looi)s. 


14 


Buttonholer 


Pants-Make buttonholes in fly. 

Jacket — Make buttonholes through loops. 




15 


Button sewer 


Pants — Sew on fly buttons. 
Jacket — Sew on front buttons. 





43 

use wlicu t'cillcd foi-. Mmii>' of these Hceessorics are in l()t-leii<i'ths 
and re(|uire to be eiit into iiKlividual pieees by the ()])ei-at<)i- when 
needed. 

For pui-jjoses of ^cttiii^' iiist ruelional material in the opei-atioii of 
tliis de]»ai'tnient it will he suf^'ieient to make a study of two typieal 
standard garments — the ])ajama suit, and inji'ht g-own. The night 
gown has one-i)iece fronts and hacks witli yoke construction, while 
the pajama suit has open coat and pants construction. 

An airplane view of the making of a typical pajama suit will show 
the organization outlined on page 42. 

DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 

The fact that there are two parts to the suit makes it possible to 
organize production on the parts individually or with the suit as a 
unit. Of two tirst part girls, one may work exclusively on pants and 
the other on jackets, or each may work on l)oth ]:»arts. The organi- 
zation scheduled above may be used either way. In the analysis 
which follows, the form adopted will be simply an expansion of the 
outline just presented. The form may appear to read as if but one 
suit is being made. I)i all eases i1 is necessary to int(M'pi'(>t (pian- 
tity production on the basis of units or bundles of twenty-four. In 
some cases one single operation will be done on each of twenty-four 
pieces of the garment. Sometimes the oi)erator will do two oper- 
ations on the i)iece while it is in the macdiine before taking the next 
similar piece. In this Avay she may lunc studied and experimented 
until she has found for herself that pieees nuiy have one, two, three 
or four operations performed wliib^ going through once, according 
to conditions, parts, and her own skill. This study results in higher 
speed, and consequently higher wages on the piece-rate basis. 
Sleeves and other duplicate parts usually go through in pairs, that is. 
one operation done on a right will be done ])erhaps in a reverse order 
on the left before the next right is put under the machine. 

It should be noted particularly that auxiliary infornuition which is 
common to all payroll jolts and woi-k jobs has not been i-epeaird each 
time a job is analyzed. The words "nothing additional,'" "jiothing 
si)ecial," or "none" do not mean that if a girl is being taught some 
particular payroll job where such words are used descriptively, she 
has nothing on these points to l)e taught. It does mean that for 
sake of saving endless repetition of this data, it has been stated 
elsewhere in this study as common or general auxiliary knowledge, 
which must be taught to this girl now, and that on these items there 
is no s))eeial information peculiar to tliis job Avhich requires teach- 
ing in addition to the general facts. This general information 
includes instruction on ])roperties of materials used, on operating 
principles of machines, on their care, and on factory procedure and 
organization. 



44 



PAYROLL JOB— GIRDLE MAKER 



The girdle maker operates a special two-needle machine and folder. 
It is used also for making' what is called continuous facing, but the 
work is identical exce])t for lengtli of the ])ieces put through. The 
needles are spaced about five-eiglith inches apart, and the folder 
doubles the cloth strip over, turns in both raw edges forming a strap 
about ^" wide which is tlnni sewed along the edges. The girdles 
are sewn in half-lengths and are joined by the first part girl later. 

A. Pants : 

1. Make girdles : Feed strips of cloth into the folder. Count out 
l)undles of 48 half-lengths. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — girdle stock, thread. 

Tools — special two-needle flat-bed machine, scissors. 

Operations — feeding the folder, counting out bundles. 

Location — setting folder fair, keejung edges of stock runnin<* 
out against the edge of folder. 
Stock : 

Recognition — girdle ])ieces hy shape, Xo. (SO white tliread. 

Working ])roperties — Nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics: Counting in forty-eights. 

B. Jacket : Nothing. 

PAYROLL JOB— SEAMER 

The seamer operates a two-needle flat-bed machine Avith folder. 
The operations have to do with preparing the pants for the first part 
girl. With extra large sizes of pajama pants it becomes necessary to 
cut and make w^ith an outseam, but otherwise there is none. This job 
is done first if needed, and the leg piece treated thereafter as if there 
were no seam in it. 
A. Pants : 

1. Make outseams if recpiired : Lay front part of right leg inside 

and back part outside on machine right side up. Place in 
folder and sew from top to l)ottom of seam. Lay parts of 
left leg in same relation, l)ut sew from bottom to top. 

2. Sew on seat-pieces : Put right leg outside on machine, right 

side up, and insert in lower part of folder. Place correspond- 
ing seat-piece in upper part of folder, sewing from l)ottom 
upwards. Put left leg inside on machine right side up, and 
insert in upper part of folder. Place corresponding seat- 
piece in lower part of folder and sew from bottom upwards. 
8. Seam right and left legs together at back : Put right and left 
legs in lower and upper parts of folder as they lie at finish 
of operation 2 above. Stitch from crotch to top of goods. 



45 

B. Jacket : Nothing. 
Anx iliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — leg'-pieces, seat-pieces, thread. 
Tools — two-needle flat top machine, scissors. 
Operations — seaming, joining. 

Location — top and bottom of ontseams, seat-piece seams, joining 
seam, crotch. 
Stock : 

Recognition — parts by name and shape, Xo. 80 white thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 

The first part girl does a nnmber of single needle oi^erations. On 
the ])ants she practically finishes the garment, since it only remains 
to have the bottoms hemmed and the buttons sewn on the fly after 
it leaves this machine. On the jacket she does all the single needle 
work. In a sense therefore the name of the payroll job is a mis- 
nomer, since there is no second part or stage of single needle work 
to be done as there is in making the gown. The name sticks how- 
ever, because it is single needle constrnction which constitutes the 
main part of making all garments. 
A. Pants : 

1. Hem, or hem and tassel, ends of girdle: If simply hemmed, 

fold over Y/' and once again, sewing across and tacking. If 
a tassel is added, lay base of tassel on hem before sewing a 
box tack. 

2. Make fly : Put left front of garment outside on machine right 

side up. Lay buttonhole fly (see buttonholer) over with its 
raw edge even with raw edge of front, and top end I/2" above 
the lower of two notches on front edge, near the top corner. 
Sew %" from raw edges, starting at bottom and ending at 
top of buttonhole piece. Lay left front inside on machine 
wrong side up. Fold fly over so as to bring its folded edge 
just even with folded edge of goods to which it is sewn. Turn 
in back edge of fly and se\\- from bottom end clear through 
to top of garment. Put button side outside on machine 
wrong side up. Lay button-stay underneath wrong side up 
with edges even and top end at upper of two notches on 
front edge of button-side. Sew along edges from bottom of 
stay to lower of two notches on front edge of button side, 
then sew from this notch across button-stay until 1/2" from 
its inner edge. Tack end of this run. Cut with scissors 
through two layers of goods across the button-stay just above 
the last seam and as far as the tacking. Trim out the per- 



46 

tion of l)iitt()ii-stay only aljovc the cut just made. Tni-ii huttoi) 
stay mside out until seam comes to edov, pnshino' angle of seam 
out srjuare with tip of finger. Lay button side at inside posi- 
tion wrong side up, and sew up along outer edge of button- 
stay as far as top corner, tlien in across the end as far as it 
was cut away. Fold over part of right front which lies at 
top end of the stay as far as it M^as cut with scissors and 
continue the seam up this folded edge to top of garment 
Return a seam down a "foot" away from this edge to top 
of button stay. Turn in back edge of button-stav and con- 
tinue this seam down to bottom of stay. 

3. Put in girdle: Lay garment in machiiie wrong side up and 

stitch down at joining seam (middle of back) about 1" 
Overlap ends of two half-lengths of girdle under the needle 
at this point and tack them to garment. Fold top edge of 
garment over the girdle, forming a wide hem Iving exactly 
between the two notches on front edge of buttonhole side. 
Turn in lower edge and tack corner of hem. Sew clear 
through lower edge of toj) hem until 1" from end of right 
or button side. Stich label under lower v(h^v of hem at tliis 
|)oint and continue seam to od^c of garment with a tack. 
(Care is needed to see that girdle is not sewn in with the hem 
at any point.) 

4. Join fronts below tiy : (Uieck position from top hem of gar- 

ment, laying outsides of fronts together and flv edges even. 
Sew from lower end of fly to crotch %" from raw edges. 
Pull garment out flat on machine, right side up, and sew 
oyer this last seam from crotch back to fly. Tack bottom 
of fly crosswise. Sew back from fly to crotch a "foot" 
away to catch raw edges of hem beneatli. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials— garment (leg-pieces joined at back), flv, button-stay. 

half-length girdles, tassels, label, thread. 
Tools — one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. 
Operations— hemming, folding over, turning in, turning inside 

out, tacking, trimming, checking, joining. 
Location— left and right fronts, outside and inside on machine, 
right and wrong side up, toj) and bottom of fly, folded and 
raw edges of fly, lower of two front notches, outer and inner 
angles at top of button stay, top edge at joining seam, bottom 
of fly, crotch, a ''foot" away 
Stock : 

Recognition— all parts by name and shape. No. 80 white thread. 
Working properties— nothing additional. 
Safety: Needle guard on the foot prevents fingers from gettino- 
under the point. * 



47 

Care of Tools - Xothin.u' s])(H'ial. 
l)ra\viii<>- and Science: Xotliini;- six'cial. 

Matliematics: Measui-inu' '/..", ]". ■•^" hv eve coi-rect to '/s". 
B. -lackef : 

1. Sew labels and size tab on yoke: ('n1 apart with scissors and 

fold or ci-ease nnder ends of labels. I'lace yoke in machine 
ri^ht side up, and |)iit label in position 1" from middle of 
top ed^'e. Sew all around label, insertinj^f size tab under one 
end. 

2. Sew front or neck facin<is on yoke: Place yoke outside on 

machine rig'ht side ui). Lay left slioulder facin<i' on yoke 
wrong side up with notclied end at shoulder edji'e of yoke, 
edges even, and stilch towards neck %" from raw edges. 
Repeat with right shoulder facing, sewing from neck to 
shoulder. Cut threads. 
8. Make and sew on pocket: Lay ])ocket in machine wrong side 
np. Fold over top edge as far as side notches, turn in edge 
for hem and sew once across. Put left front in machine 
right side up. Lay pocket in position with top edge opposite 
bottom of armhole and front edge in line with meeting point 
of neck and shoulder edges. Vary position nearest distance 
sidewise to match stripes. Box top coi-ner at armhole, turn- 
in edge, and sew around bottom to front to]) with a box 
finish to seam. 

4. Join fronts to back: Lay back outside on machine wrong side 

up. Place right front on top, right side up, with its shoulder 
edge Vi" inside shoulder edge of back. Stitch across a 
"foot" away from shoulder edge of front, sewing toward 
neck. Repeat with left fi-ont, sewing from neck to arm- 
hole. Pull garment out flat with fi'onts at inside position 
right side up. P'ohl raw ('d<j:c in, and sew from armhole to 
neck. Repeat with right shoulder, sewing from neck to 
shoulder. 

5. Join yoke and neck facings to garment: Lay garment outside 

on machine right side up. Fold over upper end of left front 
hem as far as notch. Refold over %" of this hem and press 
flat. Lay left neck-facing and yoke over these hem folds, wrong 
side up with shoulder seams of yoke and body i)art matching 
and neck edge Ms" below neck edge of body. Sew from left 
front edge around neck until 4" from right front edge. Fold 
over top of right front edge as far as notch and refold over 
%". Lay these front hem folds under the right end of the 
neck-facing then continue the seam to right front edge. Trim 
off front end of facings. Snip raAv edge of the neck at inter- 
vals with scissors so that in next operation it will lie flat. 
Turn yoke and facings over to inside position on body (or 
turn neck seam inside out), pushing the angles or points of 



48 

front hems out sharp and definite on the closed end of scis- 

6. Finish front hems and iieek facings : Lay garment on machine 
wiono side up and flatten out tlie neck seam all around, 
lack at right front angle or point then sew a "foot" away 
from neck edge clear around to left front point. Continue 
this seam down left front hem a "foot" away from folded 
edge to bottom of jacket. Turn in back edge of left front 
hem and sew up from bottom to edge of neck-facincr Turn 
m ower edge of neck facings and yoke, sewing around to 
righ trout and down to bottom of jacket on back edge of 
right tront hem. (The right front has no seam a "foot" 
away from edge, as it is tlie button side and is covered over 
when buttoned up.) 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials-labels size-tabs, yokes, neck facim-s, fronts, pocket 
pieces, backs, tliread. ^ i i^» i 



^vv.x^ ill,, ly,^, luacjiiiif, scissors. 

Operations— cut apart, crease, join, box, turn in, fold over, re 



fools— one-needle flat top machine, scissors 
"•perations — cut apart, crease, join, b 
fold over, trim, snip, turn inside out 
Location-top edge of yoke, notched end of neck facings, out- 
side and mside on, machine, wrong and right side up edo-e^ 
even or offset %- or 14", opposite left armhole, below meet- 
ing point of neck and left shoulder edges, facings over top 
ends of front hem folds, facings inside on bodv, an-'les or 
points at top of front hems, a "foot" away from .^dge, bottom 
Stock "'' ' ''^"'' "^' ^""""^ '""''' ^''"""^ ''"" m.tches. 

Recognition— all parts l)y name and shape. No. 80 wliit.- tliread 
Working properties—nothing special. 
Safety: Nothing special beyond needle guard 
Care of Tools : Nothing s])ecial. 
Drawing and Science .- None. 

Mathematics: Measuring y^" exact, 1/4" accurate to 1/16" 3/''... 
accurate to i/s" and 1" accurate to 1/4" by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE PIECER 

foldino.'i?7' /''''?" T''^"'^ ' ^^^■'-»<'*'<1'<' flat bed machine with 
folding attachment. Her duty is to jom the sleeve parts with a 
cam running lengthwise of the arm. Sleeves come in two parts 
because they can be cut to advantage from the goods in that way, 
would L'f'LP''";;^ ^^'"^ f "°^ '^ 8'^^^t as the loss of goods 

run so i. tn ff Tif l^T '^ ''^'^''- '^^''' ^^^^^ "^^^^t always be 
run so as to face the back. 

A. Pants : Nothing. 



49 

B. Jacket : 

1. Put pieces of right sleeve in the machine right side up with 
front piece at inside position. Sew from shoukler to wrist. 
Repeat with left sleeve sewing from wrist to shoulder. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — sleeve pieces, tliread. 

Tools — two-needle machine Avitli attachment, scissors. 
Operations — joining. 

Location — right side ui), front piece inside on machine, right 
and left, wrist and shoulder ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeve parts by size and shape. No. 80 white 

thread. 
"Working properties — nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE MAKER 

The sleeve maker uses a one-needle machine without folder. Her 
work is to i)ut on the cuff and tack the ends of the cuff together 
ready for the feller. The latter operation, however, does not come 
until after the sleeve has been put in the garment. That is, the 
sleeve is sewn in after the cuff is on, but while the shoulder end is 
still in the flat. Cuffs may be just plain bands or they may have 
angular points or curved lines for their upper edges. In the ir- 
regular designs the widest part of the cuff' is placed on the up])er 
side or back of the arm. 

A. Pants : Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Put cuff' on sleeve: Put left sleeve outside on machine wrong 

side up. Lay cuff' on top wrong side up, straight edges even, 
and widest part towards back of sleeve. Sew across a "foot" 
away from edge. Repeat with right sleeve. Fold cuff over 
into outside position with seam exactly at edge, and crease 
goods flat. Put sleeve outside on machine right side up and 
sew across a "foot" away from edge of cuff. Swinging 
sleeve to inside position right side up, turn in and sew along 
upper edge of cuff*. Trim oft' ends of cuft' even with sleeve. 
Repeat with right sleeve. 

2. Tack ends of cuff: Put sleeve outside on machine wrong side 

up, and cuff end furtliest off. Fold outer end of cuft' over 
and in until ^4" from inner end. Tack i/o" along this upper 
raw edge and edge out. Fold the i/4" lower extension over 
to meet the upper tacked edge, and fold over (nice more 
making a hem aliout 8/16" wide. Sew a box tack 1" long- 
in this hem. This holds cuff, and makes a starting place for 



50 

the fellinji' machine. This ()i)ei'ati()ii is identical for both 
ri^ht and left sleeves, no acconnt l)ein<»' taken of the direction 
wliich the felled seam faces, botli l)eiii<z' start(>d at the cnif. 
Arran<i'e sleeves in pairs. 
Anxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — sleeves, cuffs, thrccid. 
Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
Operations — cuffing', Jiemmin^', tacking-, ediiiiiji- out. 
Location — outside and insid(> on machine, right and wrong side 
up, right and left sleeves, hack or outer side of sleeve, shoulder 
and wrist ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeves riglit and left by seam, cuffs riglit and left 
by sliape, No. 80 thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety: Needle guard on foot of machine. 
Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing and Science: None. 

Mathematics: Measuring ^4", 3/16", I/2". 1" '»>' t'yc, a "foot" 
away. 

PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 

At this stage the examiner receives the jacket Ixxlies from tiic 
first part girl and the sleeves from the sleeve makei" in separate 
bundles. Thev ai'e each insix'cted before uoinu' to the sleever. 

A. Pants: 

1. Examine pants: ("heck length of sides and evenness of fly. 
Inspect all seams for runoffs, skijjs and raw edges. Look for 
defects in goods. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seam, looking for straight 

seams, runoff', skip stitclies and raw edges. Insi)ect cuffs 
for similar things, and also for width of tacked hem to see 
that it is not too wide for the folder of the felling machine 

2. Examine jacket body : Check for even distance on each side 

of neck from shoulder seam to front points. Check length 
of front hems and see that they are of uniform width. Check 
position of pocket. Look in all three cases for runoff's, skip 
stitches, raw edges, and for defective goods. 

3. Report to forelady all imix-i-fect garments for i-e])aii-. 
Auxiliarv Information 

Trade 'Terms: 

Materials — ])ants, jacket Ixxlies, sleeves. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — checking lengths, inspecting seams. 
Location — all parts of garment by name. 



51 

Special — runoffs, ski]) stitches, vn^\■ ('(l<ies. 
Stock : 

Keco'i'iiition — all i)ai'ts of yanuent by name. 

Working' i)i'()perties — nothiiiu' special. 
Safety and Care of Tools: None. 
Drawin<i- and Science : None. 

Mathematics: Measurinu' unifoi-m widths hy eye, measuring- 8/1 (i" 
l)0xed hem hy (\ve. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUNDLE BOY 

The sorter or huiidle boy takes bundles of jacket bodies and 
sleeves in the racks and carefully checks body and sleeve bundles 
by nund)ers on tag's so that the sleever will get mated bundles tied 
together. Each heretofore were coming tlirough tlie processes en- 
tirely independent of each other, and must now bt' checked for as- 
sembling. 

A. Pants: Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Sort and tie bundles together: Find two bundles in bins hav- 
ing tags with identical lot and bundle ]uiml)ers. Tie same 
together. Place in bin. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — bundles. 
Tools — tie strings. 
Oi^erations — sorting, tying. 

Location — position of bins containing certain lot numbers. 
Stock: 

Recognition — tags by lot and l)undle numbers. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVER 

The sleever operates a two-needle fiat l)ed machine with folder 
She joins sleeves to l)odies. 

A. Pa,nts : Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Join sleeves to body: Sni]) raw edges of ai'udiole at various 
points to help it si)read in seam. Lay l)ody inside on machine 
right side up, and sleeve in right position on outside. Sew 
left sleeve from front to back of armhole and right sleeve 
from hack to front (seam facing sleeveward). 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — bodies, sleeves, thread. 
Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
Operations — joining, snipping. 



52 

Location — edge of armliole, outside and inside on machine, riglit 
side up, front and l)ack of arnihole, seam faces sleeve, right 
and left sleeve. 
Stock : 

Recognition — body, right and left sleeve, No. 80 thread. 
Working properties — nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing and Mathematics: None. 

Science: Reversing edge of shoulder gootls back into the seam 
requires that it take a larger circumference of a circle, that is, 
the edge must expand. If not snipped it will not expand l)ut 
will draw and i)ucker. The sni]iping allows goods to open 
up at the cuts and thus lie tlat. 

PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 

The felling girl runs a two-needle si)ecial macliine with a f(»lder. 
The head extends forward from edge of tal)le about 10" or 12", and 
the bed is small and round like an arm so tliat sleeves may be pushed 
back over it when joined into tubular sha|)e. The work consists of 
closing sleeves and bodies. 

A. Pants : Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Fell sleeve and body seams : Insert tacked end of cuft' behind 
the folder under the needle. Bring edges in through the 
scrolls to position. Sew from cuff to armhole then down 
side of body to l)ottom. Rei)eat with othei' sleeve. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — jacket, thread. 

Tools — two-needle special with folder, scissors. 
Operations — felling. 

Location — cuft' behind folder, sleeve edg(>s iu folder, armhole, 
bottom of jacket. 
Stock : Nothing special. 

Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing additional. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 

The markiug girl has two stages or operations on the jacket, and 
one on the pauts. In the former she must mark position of loops, 
then after the buttonholes are sewn through the loo])s she marks for 
the l)uttons. 
A. Pants : 

1. Mark for fly-buttons: Lay garment flat on ta])le front up. 
Turn back edge of outer or buttonhole fly until holes are 
partly exposed. Mark opposite them on button side. 



53 

B. Jacket: 

1. Mark for loops or froiis : Lay ^^annciit flat on table front \\\). 

Select |)attern by size number on label sticker and place over 
left front hem. ^lark at notches in i)atteni with jiencil or 
chalk. 

2. Mark for buttons (at a later tinu' on this <;aruient) : Lay gar- 

ment flat on table facin<i' up. Put loop side over button side 
in exact position and mark throuiih buttonholes with pencil 
or chalk. 

Auxiliary Tiiformation 

Trade Terms : 

Materials — pants, jackets. 

Tools — black ]iencil or colored to show on various colors of 
jirints, pattei'n. 

Operations — markinu'. 

Location — butlonhole and button side of fly, loop and button 
side of jacket, fronts up. 
Stock: Notliinu' additional. 

Safety and Care of Tools : Do not waste pencil or chalk. 
Drawin<i' : Markin<i' positions. 
Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— LOOP GIRL 

The loop girl sews the loops or fro<i's on the buttonhole side of the 
jacket at marks indicated. The loops are made of fancy braid and 
are already tacdced into shape, so that they can be sewed with a row 
of stitching' all around, Following middle of the braid except around 
the buttonhole part, where the stitcliing is along the inner edge to 
insure neat buttonhole. 

A. Pants: Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Lay left front hem on machine right side up. Place loop over 
mark and follow all around the braid with a row of stitching. 
Repeat as many times as marked. 

Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — jacket, loops or frogs, thread. 

Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 

Operations — stitching. 

Location — front hem, right side uj). 
Stock : 

Recognition — thread in color to be inconsi)icuous on loo])s. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 



54 

PAYROLL JOB— HEMMER 
The hemming- liirl operates a siiifi'le needle flat l)ed maehiiie with- 
out folder, and hems the bottom of both pants and jackets. 

A. Pants : 

1. Hem bottoms: Place le^- of garment inside on machine draw- 
ing back the upper part so as to expose lower part against 
the bed wrong side up. Fold over %" then over again for 
a %" hem. Stitch once around along the tunn-d in edge. 
Repeat with other leg. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Hem l)()ttom: Place garment inside on machine wi-ong side 
up. Fold ovei' -Mi" hem, turning in the raw edge and stitch- 
ing. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — pants, jacket, thread. 

Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 

Operations — hemming, folding ovei", turning in. 

Location — bottom of garments. 
Stock : 

Recognition — No. 80 white thread. 

Working properties — ^nothing s))ecia1. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing sjx'cial. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics: Measuring %" and %" l)y eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 

The jacket is i-e1nrned to the examiner after it has been sleeved, 
felled, looped and hemmed, so that these operations may be in- 
spected. 

A. Pants: Nothing. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Examine jacket: Insjiect seams at shonldei-, frlliiig seams, 
loops and bottom hems for st raightness, I'unoffs, ski|)s and 
raw edges. 
Auxiliary Information 

(See under first stage of examining tiiis garment.) 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The buttonhole machine is a sjiecial automatic machine wliich 
sews a pearl stitch all aronnd the position where the buttonhole is 
to be,then cuts throngh the cloth inside the stitches. Its head stands 
forward somewhat from the table so that garments can be readily 
put in the foot in any recpiired i)osition. This foot moves forward 
and back, carrying the goods witli it, and its niotion may be ad- 
justed to any length of l)Utt(»nliole reiinired. The work ccmsists of 
two jobs which are timed widely a|)art in the making of the i)ajama 



suit, the huttoiihole fly hciii^- rcciuircd at the l)('<^iiiiiiii<i' of iiuikiii<;' 
the jiants, and the jacket eoininu' almost a1 the end. 

A. Pants : 

1. Make huttonliole fly: Fold piece alon^' the middle leniitlnvise, 
wrong' sides in, and ])ut into tlie machine. Xumher of holes 
is indicated by a table of sizes. The spacinji' of these is a 
matter of judjiment and is generally arbitrarily set by notic- 
ing- where the end of the fly or the last buttonhole made lies 
with respect to some part of the l)ed of the machine. There 
is no divided scale of any kind on the machine for spacing- 
buttonholes. 

B. Jacket : 

1. Sew buttonholes in jacket : Put one of the loops, which have 
already been sewn over the front hem at marks indicated 
by the marker, under the machine right side up. Repeat in 
any desired order with remaining loojis. 

Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — fly-])ieces, jacket, threatl. 

Tools — special machine, scissors. 

Operations — folding, buttoidioling. 

Location — nuddle of fly, front hem. 
Stock : 

Recogniti()n--fly-])ieces by sha))e, Xo. of thread. 

Working properties — nothing s])ecial. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Xothing si)ecial. 

Drawang, Science or Mathematics : Spacing buttonholes by eye, 
accurately to i/4" lengthwise of goods and 1/16" crosswise. 

PAYROl.L JOB— BUTTON SEWER 

The button sewing machine is a si)ee'ial nuichine with its head 
staiiding foi-ward from edge of table. The buttons are ]ilaced in 
the upper pai't of the foot, and the garment in the lower part of this 
same foot. The whole foot is eonti-olled l)y a cam which makes it 
move sidewise back aiul foi-th just the distance between holes in the 
button, and keep time exactly with the needle. If four-hole buttons 
are used a second cam is brought into use which compounds the side- 
Avise motion with a back and foi'ward motion at the same tinu'. This 
brings the needle first over two holes in a diagonal direction, and 
then over the other two diagonally. The record of number of but- 
tons sewn on is made by an automatic counter attached to the ma- 
chine. 
A. Pants: 

1. Sew buttons on fly: Sjnll buttons from carton conveniently 
on bed of machine to right of needle. Put one in foot of 
nuichine. Place button side of fly right, side up in foot of 



56 

machine with mark under center of button. Sew until it has 
been sul"ficiently well attached. Repeat with other positions. 
B. Jacket: 

1. Sew^ buttons on jacket : Put button in foot. Lay button side 
of front in foot with mark under center ofbutton. Sew until 
judg-ed sufficiently attached. Repeat with balance of posi- 
tions. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — buttons, pants, jacket, thread. 
Tools — special machine, scissors. 
Operations — button sewin<i-. 
Location — l)utton side of fly and jacket front. 
Stock : 

Recoji'uition — pearl l)uttons by sizes in cartons, No. 80 white 

thread. 
Working properties — nothini-' special. 
Safety : Nothing special. 

Care of Tools: Buttons must be placed fair, that is with lioles in 
a line parallel with l)ack of foot, otherwise needle will strike 
"off" and break. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

So far as the sleeping wear department is concerned the ])ajama 
suit is nov\' comiilete. The de])artmental ]n-oduct is checked by the 
desk girl, and goes down the chute to tlie folding department. 



The second of two tyjiical garments which are to be described in 
detail as a i^art of tlie sleeping wear de])artment ])roduct is the night 
gown. The type selected •will be a plain white flannelette with 
double front and back yokes, the front yoke being trimmed with 
braid and hem stitching. Sleeves will be full length and cuff'ed. 

A skeleton outline of the making of this nightgown follows : 



No. 


Payroll Job 


Work Jobs 


1 


First part girl 


Join lininj? and upper front yokes together, sew on braid. 
Hem front opening. Sew front yokes to body, sew label 
on back lining-yoke, join back lining-yoke to body, join 
front and back yokes. 


2 


Hemstitcher 


Hemstitch around edge of braid. 


3 


Sleeve piecer 


Piece sleeves. 


4 


Sleeve maker 


Put cuffs on sleeves. 


5 


Examiner 


Inspect previous workmanship on bodies and sleeves. 


6 


Bundle boy 


Sort bundles of sleeves and bodies to match. 




Sleever 


Join sleeves to body. 


8 


Feller 


Close in sleeves and bodie;. 


9 


Eemmer 


Hem bottom. 


10 


Examiner 


Inspect finished garment. 


11 


Marker 


Mark for buttonholes and buttons. 


12 


Buttonholer 


Make buttonholes. 


13 


Button sewer 


Sew on buttons. 


14 


Buttoner 


Button up garment. 



57 

DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 

As in the pajama jackets, it will be noted that after the bundles 
come from the cutting room, the sleeve parts are separated from the 
others, and two sub-bundles are made with identical numbers on the 
tags. These run through separately, the bodies going to operators 
1 and 2, and the sleeves to 3 and 4, then both to operator 5 separately, 
after which they are mated into one bundle again by the bundle boy. 

PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
The llrst part girl uses a one-needle machiiie and is employed ex- 
clusively on the yoke construction. In plain yokes her work is 
continuous, l)ut when certain kinds of fancy stitching are added, 
the operations are interrupted l)y tliis extra work which is done 
upon other machines by other operators and then returned for com- 
pletion. In the case of the garment being described, the first pari 
girl joins the front lining and upper yokes together and sews tlit 
braid to the upper yoke according to whatever design has beei 
written into the specification for that lot number. It then goes to 
the hemstitcher and is returned for further processes hy the first 
part girl. 

1. Join front upper and lining yokes: Put right half of upper 

yoke outside on machine wrong side up. Lay correspond- 
ing lining yoke on top with wrong side up (i. e. parts both 
rights together). Sew along neck edge a "foot" away as 
far as bottom of front edge of yoke. Turn parts right sides 
out and press seam flat. Lay yoke on machine right side up. 
Place braid in position a uniform distance from neck and 
l^ottom edges, cutting at angles and sewing along all edges. 
liepeat with left front yoke. 

2. Hem opening of body front : Lay front on machine wrong 

side up. Fold over right or buttonhole side as far as notch 
on top edge and uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn 
in the edge and sew along it from top to l)ottom of opening. 
Swing garment in machine, repeating with left or button 
side, but sewing from bottom to top. 

3. Join front yokes to body front : Lay right half outside on 

machine with lining yoke up and bottom edge towards right. 
Fold back the front or upper yoke underneath far enough to 
escape being sewn in. Lay body front over right half of 
yoke right side up and sew to lining yoke from armhole to 
1" from notch. Arrange pleat at notch, facing towards arm- 
hole and wide enough to ])ring front hem even with front 
line of yoke. Complete seam to frcnt edge. Repeat with 
left front yoke, but work from front opening to armhole. 
Pull out both yokes from beneath into position, laying uppei 
fi'ont yoke over the body front and turning in the lower edg( 
to cover seam. Sew from right shoulder joining armhole 



58 

edges together as far as body, then across to right front. 
Repeat with left part, bnt work from front hem to armhole 
then up left armhole to shoulder. 

4. Box bottom of front opening : Put body front in machine 

right side up. Lay right front hem over left, checking 
length from neck to bottom. Sew a box tack at lower end. 

5. fSew label on back lining yoke: Lay back lining yoke in ma- 

chine right side up. Place label 1" from top edge at middle 
and size tab under one end. Sew all around edge of label. 

6. Join lower back yoke to body: (Note: This operation re- 

quires a single folder and also the use of a gathering attach- 
ment to take up the extra width of goods in the body back 
just at the middle of the yoke.) Lay body outside on ma- 
chine wrong side up. Lay back lining, yoke inside on ma- 
chine l)ody side up. Insert yoke in folder. Work from 
right armhole to say 2" from middle of back. Start gather- 
ing attachment and allow it to operate until V)ody and yoke 
are both taut between needle and hands which hold parts at 
left armhole. Stop gathering attachment and continue seam 
to end. 

7. Join l)ack and front yokes at shoulders: Lay Ixxly back out- 

side on machine wrong side up with lining yoke out in posi- 
tion. Lay l)ody front over it i-ight side up with shoulder 
edges of front parts of yoke and back lining yoke even. 
Lay upper back yoke wrong side up over front yoke with 
shoulder edges even. Sew a "foot" away from shoulder 
edges, working from right armhole around back of neck to 
left armhole. Pull out l)ody back from beneath to inside 
position on machine and riglit side up. Pull upper back yoke 
over so as to cover its own lining yoke. Sew along shoulder 
seam from right armhole, then a "foot" away around back 
of neck, then along shoulder seam to left armhole. Turn in 
bottom edge of upper back yoke to cover seam, and stitch 
across from right sleeve opening to left. 

Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — front and Imck yoke i)ieces, back and front of ])ody, 
thread, braid, label and si/e tab. 

Tools — single-needle machine, folder, gatherer, scissors. 

Operations — joining, hemming, boxing, gathering, turning in. 

Location — upper and lower (or lining) yokes, right and left 
halves of front yoke, back yoke, top edge of body front and 
body back, right and left armholes, shoulder, neck and lower 
edges of yoke, right and wrong side up, inside and outside 
on machine, pleat and pleat notches, a "foot" away, pleats 
facing towards armliole, front o])ening. 



59 

Stock : 

Recognition — yoke and body pai'ts l)y shape, colors and stripes, 

No. 60 white thread. 
AVorking properties — stitch may be made longer in flannel he- 
cause the soft goods allows it to sink out of sight. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Notliing additional. 
Drawing and Science : None. 

Mathematics: Judging accurately to '4" the distance from cen- 
ter to start gatherer so as to have tlie gathered portion of 
body l)ack centrally spaced. 

PAYROLL JOB— HEMSTITCHBR 
This operator runs a special machine which requires six threads, 
two being colored floss and four the usual cotton. Just in front of 
the needle is a plunger which separates the fibres of the goods. The 
sewing threads below and above hold tliese openings permanently 
in shape and at the same time enclose the colored floss along the 
edges. It is entirely an automatic process. 

1. Hemstitch halves of front yoke: Lay piece in machine right 
side up. Sew through the goods just along and outside of 
the edge of the braid. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade "Terms: 

Materials — halves of front yoke, tliread, coloi'ed floss. 
Tools — special machine, scissors. 
Operations — hemstitching. 

Location — right side up, just outside edge of In-aid. 
Stock : 

Recognition^ — right and left halves of front yoke. No. ()() tliread, 

colored floss by shades. 
Working properties — nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing sjiecial. 
Drawing, Science and ]\Iathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE PIECER 
The sleeve piecer operates a two-needle machine with folder. 
Sleeves come in most cases from the cutting room in two parts or 
pieces and these have to be sewn together. 

1. Piece sleeves : Lay first sleeves in machine right side up, so 
that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve 
seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and sew 
])airs, rights running through from shoulder to wrist, and 
lefts from wrist to shoulder. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — sleeve-pieces, thread. 

Tools — two-needle machine witli folder, scissors. 

Operations — piecing or hemming. 



60 

Ldcatioii — front and hack of sleeve, slionlder and wrist ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — front and \)i\ck parts l)y shape, No. ()0 white 
thread. 

Working- ])i-opei-ties — nothiii<i- special. 
Safety and Cai'e of Tools: Xotliin<i' additional. 
DraAving', Science and Matlieniatics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE MAKER 

The sleeA'e niakei- puts cuffs on the sleeves with a sin<i'le needle 
machine. 

1. Attach cuffs to sleeve : Pair sleeves as check on i)iecer. Place 

first sleeve outside on machine ri«iht side up. Lay cuif 
underneath right side up, and edges even. Sew a "foot" 
away from edges half way across. Make pleat in shu've 
part facing l)ack of sleeve and taking up exti'a goods until 
length of cuff and width of sleeve at wrist are equal. Con- 
tinue seam to end of cuff'. Pull out cuff from underneath 
and fold back over to cover seam. Turn in edge and sew 
across. Sew across folded edge of cuff a "foot" away. 
Trim ends of cuff if needed. 

2. Tack cuff': Lay sleeve outside on machine wrong side up and 

cuff edge furthest away. Fold outer end of cuff' over and 
in until %" from other end of cuff'. Tack along this raw 
edge about i/^" then edge out. Fold the lower end of cuff 
over to meet raw edges together and then fold over once 
again making a 8/16" hem. Sew a box tack 1" along on 
this hem. This holds the cuff' and makes a starter for the 
felling machine. This oi)eration is identical for both right 
and left sleeves. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — sleeves, cuff's, thrt»ad. 
Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 

Operations — cuffing, hemming, pleating, tacking, edging out. 
Location — outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side 
up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder 
and wrist ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeves right and left bv seam, cuff's bv shape. No 
' 60 thread. 

Working pro})erties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing sjiecial. 
Drawing and Science : None. 

Mathematics: Measuring %", 1/2", 8/16", 1" by eye, a "foot" 
away. 



01 

PAYROLL JOB^EXAMINER 

Tlie examiner receives the '■{irjueiit in two separate, sub-bundles, 
wliicli are inspected possibly at different times and Avitliont any 
thonjiht of their connection. 

1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecin<^' seams, cuifs iuid tackinj^', 

lookinji' for run-offs, skips, raw edges and possible defects in 
ii'oods. Check pairs accordin<i- to pleat and cut of cuff. 

2. Examine bodies: Inspect bodies for similar points, and in 

addition see that all parts of the yoke fit easily or sit well, 
that seams a "foot" away ai'e not too far from the edj^i'c, and 
that colors and strijx's ai-e not mixed. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — sleeves, I)odi(»s. 
Tools — scissors. 
()])erati()ns— ins])ectin^-. 
Location — all parts of garment l»y name. 
Sjx'cial — run-offs, skips, raw edges, lie flat or sit well. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeves, bodies. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing and Science : Nothing special. 
Mathematics: Measuring a "foot" away by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUNDLE BOY 

The duty of bundle boy is to match the sul)-I)undles by their lot 
and bundle numbers on card. 

1. Select l)undle of sleeves from sleeve l)in. Find bundle of bodies 
with similar nund)ers on tag. Tie these together and place 
in a third bin. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade' Terms: 

Materials — sleeves, bodies. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — checking numl)ers, tying. 
Location — special bins. 
Stock : Bundles by numbers. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawdng, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVER 

The sleever uses a two-needle flat-bed machine with folder for join- 
ing sleeves to body. 

1. Join sleeves to body : Check length of edges of sleeve and trim 
off at shoulder end if unequal. Snip edges of armhole at 
intervals. Lay body inside on machine and sleeve outside, 



62 

l)oth rijilit side up (seam faces sleeve). Put parts in folder, 
sewin*-' left sleeve from front towards back, and right sleeve 
from hack to front. Edges must start and end even. Notch 
on sleeve must meet shoulder seam. 

Auxiliary Information 

Trade Terms: 

Materials — sleeves, bodies, thread. 

Tools — two-needle flat top machine with folder, scissors. 
Operations — checking lengtli, trimming, snipping, joining. 
Location — Right and left, front and back, inside and outside on 
machine, right side up. 
8tock : 

Recognition — right and left sleeves, bodies, No. (iO thread. 
Working properties — nothing si^ecial. 
►Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing and Mathematics : None. 

Science: The turning back of edge of body part in the armhole 
seam causes it to take a position on a larger circle than at 
the folded edge. That is, it must be increased in length. If 
snipped the edge will open up and lie flat. If not it Avill draw 
the seam into a ])uckered etfect. 

PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 

The feeling girl operates a two-needle special machine with folder. 
The head stands forward from the table 8" or 10", and the bed is 
small and round so that a closed cuff or tubular sleeve may slide over 
it l)eliind the needles. The duty of this machine is to close in the 
arm and side of body. 

1. Fell garment: Put cuft' of sleeve (already tacked) l)ehind 
folder and bring edges of the sleeve part into place in folder, 
Sew from cuft' to armhole and down side to bottom of t)ody. 
Repeat with other side. No thought is taken in this oper- 
ation for direction in wliicli the seam faces. 

Auxiliary Information 

Trade Terms: 

Materials — garment. 

Tools — two-needle special macliine witli foldei-, scissors. 

Operations — felling. 

Location — cuff, armhole, bottom of body. 
Stock : 

Recognition — garment. 

Working- properties — nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 



63 



PAYROLL JOB— HEMIVIER 



The l)()11(»iii of llic uaniiciil is licniincd on a oiK'-ticcdlc niacliine 
without f()l(liii*i- attaehnieiit. 

1. Tlcin l)()ttom : Place ^arinent inside on niaehine. Fold over 
1" of underneatli layer at eenter of back and t\irn in edi>e 
as stitehiiiLi' is done eoni|)letely around to stai'tin^' point. 
A ux i 1 i a ry Inf oruia tion 
Trade Terms : 

Material~<i'arment. 

Tools — one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. 
Operations — hemming, foldinji' over, turnin<i' in. 
Location — bottom edge of gown at eenter of back. 
Stock : Nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics: Measuring 1" by eye. 

PAYROLL .JOB— EXAMINER 

The garment is inspected a second time to check on the sleeving, 
felling and hemming work. 

1. Examine garment: Inspect sleeve seams at shoulder, felled 
seams and hem at bottom. Check for lying even, straight 
seams, and foi- the usual defects on seams. 
Auxiliary Information 

(See former stage of examiner's Avork.) 

PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 

The marker spots positions for buttons l»y marking through the 
buttonholes. Only on such garments as have long buttoned parts 
is it necessary to mark positions for buttonholes. In these cases it 
is done by marking at V-shai)ed notches on the edge of a pattern 
made of heavy cardboard. This part of the job would come natural- 
ly before the buttonholer gets the garment. Button positions must 
always be marked after the holes are sewn. 

1. Mark for buttonholes : Lay garment flat and even. Select 

right size of pattern. Place pattern on right hem of front 
opening and mark at notches. 

2. Mark for buttons : Lay garment flat with fi-ont up. Straighten 

out front hems and mark through holes with a soft black 
or colored pencil. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade "^Terms: 
Materials — garment. 

Tools — pencil, patterns by sizes and designs. 
Operation — marking. 
Stock : Nothing special. 



G4 

Safety and Care of Tools : Notliino- special. 
Drawiii<>', Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The hnttonholes are made on a special machine, described under 
pajamas. On ladies' nifi'litgowns there may he no buttons or front 
opening' so that the job preceding' this job and the one following it 
may also frecpiently be unnecessary according to the design. In this 
design the yoke is close fitting about the neck, so that a buttoned 
opening is needed. 

1. Make buttonholes: Place gai'meiit in machine with buttonhole 
hem (riglit) in tlie foot. Sew buttonholes as marked. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — garment, thread. 
Tools — special machine, scissors. 
Operations — sewing l)utton holes. 
Location — right hem of front opening. 
Stock : Nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Notliing six'cial. 
DraAving, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON SEWER 

The button sewing machine was described under pajamas. On 
those night gowns wdiich have front openings, buttons are sewn at 
marked points. 

1. Place button hem of garment in foot of nuichine. Plcae l)utton 
in upper part of foot. Sew until secui-ely fastened. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — garment, l)uttons, thread. 
Tools — special machine, scissors. 
Operations — placing l)uttons, sewing. 
Location — left hem of front opening. 
Stock : 

Recognition — pearl buttons by sizes in cartons. 
Working properties— nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Blunt needle bi-eaks buttons. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONER 
The button girl has simply to button up the garment. It is a 
monotonous job with no attractive features and requiring no partic- 
ular knowledge. 

1. Button front of garment : Start at neck and work to bottom 
of pleat. Tie into bundles. Deliver to chute to folding de- 
partment. 



Auxiliary I.iiforiiiatioii 
Trade" Terms: 

Location — Imtlon sdincliincs otT place by hcin^' sewn on a mis- 
taken mark. Ivcport to forclady. 
Safety: Sharp eiliics on imj)crfect Inittons may eut tin<;ers. 

Children's Sleeper Department 

Cliildren's sleepers are madc^ lai-^'ely from flannelette, but other 
li<i'litcr cotton goods are used for summer wci«>'hts. Flannelette is 
woven and napped so as to be the same on both sides so that there 
is no rijilit and wrong side to the cloth, but cotton goods are sized 
and ironed so as to produce a glaze on one side which is generally 
used as the right side. Some cotton goods are printed on one side. 
When speaking of the right side of flannelette, we mean the side 
which becomes the outside of the garment. 

Sleepers are union garments, made sometimes with a hood attached 
at the neck, and also as a nde, though not always, with attached 
feet. They are mostly footed, and without the hood. Sizes are 
indicated on the labels by years, ranging from 1 to 14. The design 
of the garment provitles for buttoning from neck down front to 
bottom of a boxed ])leat, and also across the top of a back tiap reach- 
ing to side openings. 

The construction of a slef^jiei" may l)e summarized in the follow- 
in u' wav : 



Payroll Job 



Hemmer 

Fii-st part srirl 



Second iiart g 

Feller 

Examiner 

Tacker 

Buttonholer 

Markers 

Button sewer 

Buttoner 



Work Jobs 



Hem bottoms of backs. 

Sew belt on back, hem buttonhole and button side of fronts, 

join fronts, make and sew on pocket, sew on toe-pieces. 
Piece sleeves if needed, join backs of pants, join sleeves to 

body, join shoulders. 
Hem side openings on pants, sew backhand to pants, heel 

bottom of pants, sew cuffs on sleeves, sew on collar. 
Fell sleeves and outside and inside seams of legs. 
Inspect workmanship. 

Tack wrist and side ends of felled seams. 
Make buttonholes on front, backhand and cuffs. 
Mark for buttons. 
Sew on buttons. 
Button garment ready for folding department. 



DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 

Tlnu-e is sufficient instructional material connected with the 
various machines and goods used throughout the ])rocesses of making 
this sleejier, to warrant a detailed study of the operations in order 
that new operators may be given adequate instruction on ]irocesses 
and auxiliary information which goes with them. 

In the study which follows it may appear as if but one garment is 
being made. The reader must interpret always that twenty-four 
similar garments are going through in each case. Sometimes the 
operations go singly, sometimes in pairs, or maybe in threes or fours 



66 

as the pieces go through once. This is a matter for careful study 
by operators to determine just wliat is for them individually the most 
rapid and efficient method of handling. 

PAYROLL JOB— HEMMER 

The hemming girl operates a one-needle machine with folder at- 
tachment, running a hem across the bottom of the back piece. 
1. Hem backs : Lay back outside on machine wrong side up. Put 
left bottom edge in folder and stitch across to right corner. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Material — flannelette, caml)ric or print backs, white tliread. 
Tools — one-needle flat-top machine with folder, scissors. 
Operations — hemming. 

Location — wrong side up, left and riglit, bottom edge, setting 
folder fair. 
Stock : 

Recognition — backs l)y shape. No. 60 white thread. 
Working properties — flannel gives off a great deal of lint, mak- 
ing it necessary to clean machine more frequently. Absence 
of starch or sizing makes goods limp, edge of goods must be 
fed in with fingers close to the folder, and an even tension 
held on goods to prevent gathering or drawing. 
Safety: The folder acts as a guard to the needle. 
Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 

The first part girl operates a one-needle flat top machine without 
attachments. She works on the front part of the garment with 
exception of sewing the belt across the middle of back. This belt 
serves no function beyond being a button-stay. 

1. Sew belt to back : Check for even length of riglit and left side 

from arm's eye to notch. Lay back iuside on machine right 
side up, bottom edge to the k'ft. Place l)elt-piece right side 
up with upper edge opposite notches. Turn in edge and 
stitch across from left to right, returning similarly on lower 
edge of belt, but leaving both ends open. 

2. Hem front opening: Lay right front (l)utt<)iiliole side) inside 

on machine wrong side up. Fold over hem to notch, making 
uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn in edge and sew 
down from neck to bottom along inner edge of hem. Lay 
left front (l)utton side) inside on machine wrong side up. 
Fold over hem to notch at neck, but narrowing to 1/2 '' width 
at bottom. Turn in edge and stitch from bottom to neck 
along inner edge. 



67 

3. -loin fronts: Lay fronts in luacliine ri^lit side up. Check for 

lenji'th from neck to bottom of hems. Lay rijiht front hem 
over left and stiteli across at bottom of ])h^at. Turn in edge 
of right front h(>lo\v ])l('at to crotch ami stitch along edge 
returning from crotcli to front a "foot" away. I'.ox bottom 
of front hems. 

4. Make and sew on pocket: Lay pocket-piece inside on machine 

wrong side up. Fold over top as far as notches and stitch 
across top of fold. Lay right front of garment in machine 
right side u)). Place pocket with top edge 1" below arm's 
eye, and "3 fingers" away from right hem. (If striped goods, 
match strijies nearest way right or left.) Turn in side edge 
nearest fi'ont, boxing top corner and stitching around to 
arm hole corner with a box tack at finish. 
.'). Se\v on toe-pieces: Lay garment outside on machine riglit side 
uj). Place toe-piece over bottom of leg w^rong side up at 
level of notches. Stitch around near edge from notch to 
notch, nothing being turned in. 
Auxiliary Infoi-mation 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — back, back-belt or button-stay, fronts, pocket-piece, 

toe-pieces, white thi'ead. 
Tools — one-needle fiat top machine, scissoi-s. 
Operations — checking lengths, hemming, tni'iiing in. folding 

over, boxing, joining, tacking. 
Location — arm's eye oi- arndiole, right and wrong side uj), out- 
side and insiib' on macliine, right and left sides, buttonhole 
and button sides, neck, bottom of front hem, crotch, a "foot" 
aw^ay, "3 tingei-s away," bottom of leg. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all i)arts by name and shape, No. (iO thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety: Needle guard on foot to protect fingers. 
Cai'e of Tools: Nothing s]>ecial. 
Drawing and Science : None. 
Mathematics: Measuring i/o", 1" and "3 fingers" by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— JOINER 

The joiner oi)erates a two-needle flat bed machine with a folder. 
Sleeves may come from the cutting room in whole pieces or in two 
pieces, some bundles having some of each kind. The joiner checks 
this and joins or pieces those necessary. She also joins all other 
parts wdiich are done on the flat with double seams. 

1. Piece sleeves : Lay first sleeve in machine right side up. so 
that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve 
seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and stitch in 



68 

})airs, right running tlirougli from sliouldcr to wrist, and 
left from wrist to shoulder. 
2. Join shoulders: Lav back of yarmeut inside on macliine riglit 
side up. Lay front in outside position right side up (that is, 
shoulder seam always faces front). Set right shoulder in 
folder, sewing towards neck, following Avitli left shoulder 
from ]ieck to arm hole. Trim ends of seam if needed. 
8. Join sleeves to 'oody: Lay body inside on machine right side 
up, and left sleeve outside in position (that is, shoulder seam 
must face the sleeve). Set front corners of sleeve and arm- 
hole in folder and stitch through to back of sleeve. Place 
right armhole and sleeve in position, stitcliing from back of 
sleeve over shoulder to front corner. 
4. Join backs of pants : Place riglit l)ack outside and left back in- 
side on machine I'ight side up. Set in folder, sewing from 
crotch to top. Ti'im ends of seam even if needed. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — sleeve-])ieces, front and back of garment, backs of 

pants, thread. 
Tools — two-needle, flat bed macliine with foldei-, scissors. 
Operations — seaming. 

Location — right side up, outside and inside, shoulder and wrist 
ends, armhole, neck, back and front of sleeve, right and left 
back of pants, crotch, seam faces backward or sleeveward, 
Stock : 

Reco^niition — all parts by name and shape. No. (50 white thread. 
Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— SECOND PART GIRL 
The second part girl continues the single needle work, putting on 
cuffs and collars, and hemming sides and top of the pants. 

L Hem side openings on pants : Lay back of pants inside on ma- 
chine wrong side up. Fold over to depth of side cut on left 
o])eniing, and to notch on top edge. Sew from bottom of 
Ikmu to top edge, turning in edge. Repeat witli right side 
oi)ening, sewing from top down and edging out. 
2. Sew backhand to pants: Double band end to end, and in)tch 
edge at middle fold with scissors (used as a marker to notch 
rest of bundle). Put pants outside on macliine wrong side 
ui). Lay band along top edge wrong side up with notch at 
joining seam. Fold over end of l)and until even with hem 
of right side opening. Stitch across top edge, folding over 
left end of band at finish of seam. Swing garment to inside 
])osition, right side up. Pull backhand out into position and 



GO 

fold over. just to cover scam. Tui']! in ri^lit end of band, and 
lower edge. Sew down riuiit end and across lower edge to 
left opening. Turn in left end of l)and and sew up, then 
across top edge towards right. Near right end of band in- 
sert label under needle with size tab under its lower edge. 
Sew once around label and continue seam to end. 
o. Heel bottom of pants: Put garment outside on machine right 
side up. Fold inside bottom corner of right leg over to out 
side corner. Sew across from outside to fold, about %" 
away, turning no edges in. Repeat with left leg, sewing 
from fold to outside edge. 

4. Sew cuff's to sleeves : Place sleeve of garment in machine 

wrong side up. Fold over hems for wrist opening from seam 
cut to v]id notch, sewing up sleeve on one hem and down 
sleeve on the other. Swing sleeve into outside position and 
lay cuft' over it wrong side up with edges even. Sew across 
near the edge, folding over ends of cuff band even with sleeve 
at start and finish of seam. Swing sleeve to inside position 
right side up and pull cuff out from beneath into position. 
Fold over onto sleeve to cover seam. Turn in ends and edge 
of cuff and sew all around. Repeat with other sleeve. 

5. Sew on collarband : Fold and mark middle and quarters of 

collarband by notch with scissors. Put garment outside on 
machine wrong side up. Lay collarband wrong side up over 
garment with edges even. Fold over ends even with front 
hems and sew across near tlie edge. Swing garment to in- 
side position right side up. Pull collarband from beneath 
out into position and fold bacd-c over to cover seam. Turn 
in ends and lower vd'j:^' and sew all around. 
Auxiliai-v Information 
Trade" Terms: 

Materials- garment (fronts and back sleeved), pants, backhand, 

label and size tab, cuff's, collarband, thread. 
Tools — one-needle machine without folder attachments. 
Operations — hemming, folding, heeling, cuff'ing, collaring. 
Location — right and wrong side uj), outside and inside on ma- 
chine, folding over, turning in, edging out. side openings, 
bottom of leus, top of ])ants. wrist, neck, front hems. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all pai'ts by name and shape. 
Working ))roperties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB -FELLER 

The feller girl operates a special two-needle machine with folder 
attacliment. The machine head extends forward over the table so 



70 

tliat the closed in ^sianneiit may pass liack over the arm-like lied. The 
operation consists practically of joininji' a continuous felled seam 
from wrist opening to wrist opening, having passed along sleeves, 
ontseams, inseams and feet. 

1. Place end of right sleeve o])ening in folder. Stitch from wrist 
to armhole and down right side, joining front to back as far 
as bottom of right side opening. Repeat with left sleeve 
and side. With garment still in machine, lay left end of 
backhand of pants over belt on l)ack, checking length by 
notches on front and back at l)ottom of left side opening. 
Sew from notch down left outseam, joining front and back 
of leg. Turning heel and toe parts right side in, continue 
seam around under arch of the foot to and along left inseam. 
Continue from crotch around right leg to notch at bottom of 
right side opening, checking right ends of backhand and belt 
when needle has reached about knee height on the up seam. 

Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials^ — garment in two parts, front and pants, thread. 

Tools — two-needle, sjiecial machine with folder, scissors. 

Operations — felling, joining. 

Location — right and left wrists and side openings, ends of back- 
band and backbelt. 
Stock : 

Recognition—body and i>ants, No. 60 white thread. 

Working properties — nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL .I0B--EXA1VIIXER 

The examiner inspects all previous workmanshii) on the sleeper. 

1. Examine collar, front pleat and pocket, looking for run-ofPs, 

skip stitches, raw edges, tacking, and seeing that i>arts lie 
even. Check length of sides of front opening. A difference 
of Vt" niust go back. 

2. Examine felling, backhand and backbelt for run-offs, skip 

stitches, raw edges, and see that parts lie even. Check length 
of side openings. 

3. Examine cuff's and sleeves at shoulder for run-ott's, ski]) titches, 

raw edges, and see that cuff's lie even. 

4. Check for mixed colors or stripes, thin spots or holes in goods. 

Report defects to forelady, who repairs and marks such 
garments as seconds. 

5. Report defective workmanslii]) to forelady, who returns them 

to the operator responsil)le. 



71 

Auxiliary Iiiforuuition 
Trade "Terms: 

Materials — child's slee])er, all parts by name. 

Tools — none. 

Operations — examining-, inspcetinii', cheeking' lengths. 

Location — all parts l)y name. 

Special — run-oti's, skip stitches, raw ed<i'es, thin spots, straijiiit 
seams, lie even, seconds. 
Stock : 

Reco<i'nition — parts dift'erinji' in color by shades and stripes, and 
differing in Aveight or thickness. 

AVorking properties — none. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing- and Science : None. 
Mathematics : Measuring Vj." and less by eye. 

PAYROLL JOB— TACKER 

The tacker ojierates a special machine which has an automatic 
movalde foot slitling over the maiii l)ed. The garment is slid into 
this foot, and when machine is set in operation it slides the goods 
under the needle three times sidewise, with a straight seam return- 
ing the fourth time with a staggered or sawtooth seam crossing the 
iirst three stitchings six or eight time;^. The length of this tacking 
can be adjusted, but it is usually set for %" or 1". The head is set 
forward so that sleeves may be slid over the end of the arm bed. 
Record of work done is read from a registering counter linked with 
the machine so as to indicate the number of tackings made by o])er- 
ator. 

1. Tack end of felhnl seams at wrist openings. Tack end of felled 
seams at bottom of side openings. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade 'Terms: 

Materials — garment. 

Tools — special tacking machine, scissors. 
Operations — tacking. 

Location — left and right wrist and side openings. 
Stock: Nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The special automatic machine used in making buttoidioles, sews 
around tlie jiosition with a peai'l stitch, then cuts through the goods 
inside the stitcliing. Buttoidioles are made in cuff's, front pleat and 
backhand. 

1. Place outside end of cuff* in machine and sew buttonhole. 

2. Place outer pleat of front opening in machine, and sew as many 



T2 

holes as reqiiired for size of garment, workiii"' from top of 
pleat to I)ottoin and spaein<i' l)y eye or chosen i^oints on bed 
of maeliine. 
3. Place backl)and in machine and sew as many holes as required 
for size of garment, workin**' end holes first, then intermedi- 
ate positions bj' eye or marks on machine. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Material — garment, names of parts, thread. 
Tools — special machine, scissors. 
Operations — buttonholing. 

Location — outer ends of riglit antl left cuffs, front pleat, ends 
of baekband. 
Stock : No. 60 Avliite tliread. 
Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
Drawing and Science : None. 

Mathematics : Measuring ]K)sition of holes by eye correct to 1/16" 
on cuff's, Vs" *>ii pleat or backhand. 

PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 

Tlie marker locates position of buttons by nmrking with soft pen- 
cil through all l)uttonholes. 

1. Lay garment flat with buttonlioles and l)utton sides in i)osition 
and mark through middle of bnttotdioles. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Material — garment. 
Tools — soft black pencil. 
Operations — laying flat, marking. 
Location — cuff's, front pleats, l)ackl)and and baekl)elt. 
Stock : Nothing additional. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing: Marking locations tlirougli lioles. 
Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON SEWER 
The ])utton sewer operates a special machine which holds the 
button in a foot which moves along with the cloth back and forth 
sidewise far enough to bring the two holes alternately under the 
needle. Tliis oscillation keeps exact time with the movement of the 
needle. Foi- four-hole buttons, a second adjustment adds a forward 
and back motion so that the UfM'dle registers over the four holes, first 
two diagonally till fully sewn, llicii the remaining two. The num- 
ber of threads sewn through is a matter of judgment of the operator. 
1. Lay buttons of required sizes conveniently on table of machine 
near foot. Put button in foot with holes square across. 
Place uarmeiit with mark underneath foot and release foot 



73 

treadle. Sew aeeoi-diii^- to judiinient. Sew on butt' n;-; in 
following' order: front pleat from bottom to top, one cnff", 
across backbelt or button stay, remaining' enlT. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — garment, pearl buttons, thi-ead. 
Tools — special machine, scissoi's. 

Operations — sewing on l)uttons, adjusting machines. 
Location — machine bed, button foot, cuffs, front pleat, l)ack belt. 
Stock : 

Recognition — two or fourdiole buttons, firsts or seconds. No. 60 

white thread. 
Working properties — nothing special. 
Safety: Second buttons have shar[) or wane edges wbich fre- 
quently cut fingers. 
Care of Tools: Button must be set in fair or lU'edle will strike 

"off" and break. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 

PAYROLL .JOB— BUTTONER 

The buttoner closes up all parts of the garment. There is no 
given series for buttoning operations which would be better than 
another. The girl adopts an order which is for herself most rapid 
and saving of eft'ort. Auxiliary konwledge is so slight as to be 
almost negligible. 
Auxiliarv Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — garnuMit. 
Tools — none. 
Operations — buttoning. 
Location — front, cuil's, backband. 
Stock: Nothing additional. 
Safety: Handle buttons so as to avoid cuts from sluii'p edges on 

seconds. 
Care of Tools : None. 

Drawdng, Science and Mathematics : None. 

The child's sleeper is completed so far as the Sleeping Wear De- 
partment is concerned wdien the buttoner has finished. The bundles 
are turned in to the desk girl for recording, and are afterwards sent 
down the chute to the Folding Department. 

Folding Department 

All garments fi'om the Sleeping Wear and Childreirs Sleeper 
Department are delivered to the Folding Department in bundles of 
twenty-four. It is the work of this department to fold, press, sort 
and box the garments. In tliis particular department there is in- 
cluded also the product oi' bi'Miudi factories which have made up 



74 

special lines such as men's fancy shirts and work shirts. The range 
of jiarments folded and hexed covers men's night shirts, pajamas, 
inijunions, work shirts and fancy shirts ; ladies' nightgowns, pajamas, 
pajunions and pajunettes; and children's sleepers. A few children's 
rompers and ladies 'bloomers are i)rodnced, hnt these are only spe- 
cials. The standard lines are sleeping wear and shirts. 

A general view of \\\e department is shown l)y tlie following 
schedule : 



No. I Payroll Job 



1 I Folder 
I 

2 I Presser 
I 

3 I Label girl 

4 I Boxer 
I 



Work Jobs 



Fold nightshirts, pajamas, pajunions, pajunettes, night- 
gowns, sleepers, work shirts, fancy shirts. 

Press fancy shirts, work shirts, pajamas, pajunions and 
pajunettes, white nightshirts, all summer garments. 

Label boxes. 

Sort folded and pressed garments according to size and 
colors, tie in bundles and wrap, box and tie. 



DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 

Since the purpose to be served by this study is to ]n-ovide data 
which may be used by instructors particularly with girls who are 
employed in departmental jobs, a detailed analysis will cover only 
such .employments as are suitable for girls, and will include only 
among these such as are concerned with the garments which were 
detailed in manufacture, namely, nightgowns, pajamas and sleepers. 
All garments are folded in the same general way, slight differences 
can be enlarged only on the job. 

PAYROLL JOB FOLDER 

This work is done exclusively by girls. The folding table is some- 
what higher than ordinary tables so that working conditions may be 
comfortable. The folder thinks of the left end as the top and gar- 
ments are always laid top to left. The surface of the table is marked 
crosswise from a top line to indicate the sizes of boxes into which 
garments are afterwards jiacked. Folds are then made within these 
particular lines. Small sleepers are folded extra small for packing 
two side by side in boxes. Folding-boards made of heavy millboard 
are used in some garments to control shape and size. The board is 
withdrawn before iiinning has been completely finished. 

1. Fold pajamas: Straighten out pants at top and with legs 
even. Lay on table with top at top line. Arrange and pin 
girdle with fringed ends out at middle of top end. Fold legs 
up until bottoms are past top line 8" or 10". Lift upper leg 
and fold underneath itself, its fold being even with top line, 
leaving end of lower leg extending out. Pin and place aside. 
Lay jacket front down, even with top line. Lay pants over 
jacket with tops even. Lay over the near and far sides and 
liin. Fold sleeves back out with cuffs extending over edge, 
and pin. Fold bottom up to required line on table and pin 



end in [)lace. Fold rciiuiiiiii!^' ])ant Ic^' htick over onto body 
and pin into position. Turn jiarment ovei- and pin cuffs to 
front of jacket. This leaves garment so that front shows 
jacket and style of cuff's, and label on inside of back yoke, 
while back shows ends of <i'irdle (plain or fringed) and style 
of pants bottom — ])lain, or looptnl and l)uttoned. 

2. Fold sleeper : 

a. Large sized garment — Lay face or front up, with top at 
top line. Fold sleeves across breast. Fold feet up to re- 
(piired folding line" on table. Fold over again even with 
top. Turn garment over and pin at edges. 
1). Small sized garment — Lay face up. Lap over sides to 
near middle and fold sleeves in to neck edge and then over 
and down with cuff's lying side by side. Fold bottom to mark. 
Fold over once again to top. Turn garment over and pin 
at edges. Both of these folds show label on outside neai- 
right end of backl)and. 

3. Fold nightgown : Lay garment face down. Fold over sides 

part way to middle. Ke-fold edges back over so as to get 
sleeves outside side lines. Fold bottom up until at required 
mark on table. Fold over once again to top. Pin parts to- 
gether. Turn gai'ment over and pin sleeve cuffs across 
front of gown. This shows label on inside of back yoke, 
and style of cuff's, yoke, and front ideat. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms : 

Materials — pajamas. sleei>ers. nightgoAvns. 
Tools — folding-boards, ]nns. 
Operations — folding, lapping over, pinning. 

Location — top line on table, various folding lines on table, front 
of garment up or down on table, near side and far sides of 
garment as it lies on table, fold under, fold over, fold up 
(from right to left or toj) end). 
Stock : Nothing special. 
Safety and Care of Tools: None. 
Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 

PAYROLL JOB— PRESSER 

The i^ressing of ganuents varies considerably. Some are partly 
pressed l)efore folding, and finished afterwards, others are not 
pressed until after folding, and some not at all. The work beingr 
relatively heavy, it is not given to young girls, but is given to men 
and women who are physically able to work without undue fatigue. 
Two types of irons are used, one being gas heated, and the other 
electrically heated. The latter is the tyjie commonly used in the 
home, and is used by the women pressers. The gas heated iron also 



76 

has steam comieetion to moisten the garment as it is ironed. This 
iron is considerably heavier and is used exclusively by men. 

No detailed analysis is made of this job because girls are not 
except in exceptional cases given this work to do. 

PAYROLL JOB— LABEL GIRL 
The duties in tliis are two-fold according as the garments are to 
be enclosed in cardboard boxes or wi-apped in paper bundles. 

1. Prepare wraj^pers : Tear off paper from roll in size according 

to descriptive sheet specification for particular lot number. 
Stick gummed label on each sheet in such position that it 
will show later on wrapped bundle just at the end of the 
bundle. 

2. Prepare l)oxes : Consult descriptive sheet for size and kind of 

l)ox for particular lot immlier. Count out number of boxes 
required. Stick labels on boxes or covers according to kind. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

Materials — wrai)ping i)ap('r, boxes, labels. 
Tools — paste and brusli. 

Operations — tearing off, lal)eling, counting out. 
Locaticn — position of laltel on sheet for various sized bundles, 
label on end of l)ox or cover according to its style or size, 
stock-iiiles of empty boxes by sizes, and lot numbers. 
Stock : 

Recognition — know empties l)y description on sheet, know labels 
by stamped sizes. 
Safety : None. 

Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
Drawing and Science : None. 

IMathematics : Figuring ]mml)er of l)oxes needed for particular 
lot number. Counting out boxes as tied in bundles of 8's, 
4's, (i's, or more. 

PAYROLL JOB— BOXER 

The boxers have two main work jobs, one boxing and the other 
bundling, tluit is wra]>ping in paper l)ouiul bundles instead of in 
boxes. 

1. Sorting: Sort garments into i)iles according to sizes, and also 

to colors in goods, or color of trimmings. Collect from piles 
in dozens, or in fractions of a dozen as 3/12, 4/12 or 6/12 
dozen, having same size but assorted colors. 

2. Bundling: Check sizes, style and quantity on garment laliels 

with those on wrappers. Lay wrappers on table, labels 
down. Tie bundles. Place bundle of garments in position. 
Wrap and tie. Stack on truck. 

3. Boxing : Check sizes, style and (pumtity on garment lal)el with 



77 

those on l)o.\. Place sorted l)undles in box. Put on lid and 
tie box. (In higher priced garments and all summer lines 
the boxes are lined with special tissue paper carrying- the 
tirm trade mark, l)efore buiulles are ])laced in the boxes. 
Auxiliary Information 
Trade Terms: 

^Materials — garments, wrappers, l)oxes, twine, lining tissue i)a)ier. 
Tools — Scissors. 

Operations — checking, tying, wrapping, laying in boxes, stack- 
ing on truck. 
Location — wrappers with label side down. 
Stock : 

Recognition — folded garments by name and shape. 
Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
Drawing and Science : None. 

Mathematics : Estimating length of twine correct to 6" for com- 
pleting tied bundles, counting out garments in dozens or 
fractions of a dozen. 
After bundles and boxes have been tied and stacked on the trucks 
by the folding department, the manufacturing has been completed. 
They are then sent to the Stock Room. 

VII. USE OF INSTRUCTION SHEETS 

Instruction is measured as to its success by what the learner can 
do as a result of it. Good instruction is also, a cost cutting factor 
in the degree that it is accomplished in the shortest possible time and 
with the elimination of unnecessary effort on the part of instructor 
and learner. This means the use of any efit'ective teaching devices 
which can be worked up. Good instruction sheets prepared in ad- 
vance save considerable time, and make possible a better selection, 
arrangement and presentation of subject matter. The sheet is not 
a substitute for personal instruction. It is a supplement to it. It 
is the h'sson summary in ])enuanent form with some test exercises 
attached, and is intended to l)e handed to tlie learner only after a 
personally conducted lesson has l)een put over. 

The following sample instruction sheet has been prepared to illus- 
trate what can be done in part-time and vestilnile schools by means 
of such a device. The vestibule school may not make use of all the 
material which appears on these slieets because its objective is not 
so inclusive as the public part-time school objective, but the objective 
of the vestibule school should be inclusive of nnich more than it has 
l)een in the ])ast, if it is to accomi)lish results that emplovers expect 
of it. 

It will be rightly judged that the sample is somewhat long. The 
fact is that such a lesson sheet would be fitted in among others ahead 
of and following it, so that some questions appearing here might 
appear with equal etfectiveness on other sheets. Their presence 



liere in such numbers is rather to indicate the possibilities than to 
suggest exactly what might appear on this instruction sheet when 
placed among others in service. It is necessary, however, to have 
"repeat" questions frequently. 

Charting the operations will lead to some study of their efficiency, 
and should produce frequent revisions by the up-to-date instructor, 
showing shortened time or reduced number of motions. The result 
will be standardized operation sheets. 

Under the heading of related instruction the purjiose is to start 
the new girl tliinking about her job, as her own, and also in relation 
to the whole product. It is evident that many more questions could 
be added. 

The reference to a drawing clears up points of doubt, and also 
serves as a record of things talked about which might otherwise slip 
l)y. Have the learner draw her own at times. 

Tlie mathematics will bring the question of relative speed to the 
girl's attention at the start and will give her a means of computing 
her attainment from day to day. It will also reveal the fact that the 
company is losing money in proportion as she is paid a bonus. In 
the early training period the company loses most, in the later train- 
ing period she herself loses most by not being up to average speed. 

In the part-time school there should be as much exercise work in 
English as can be worked in about the job which is to be, or has 
been done. These will suggest themselves to every interested teacher. 
In the vestibule school it is not expected, that such exercises would 
be carried through but it is advisable that the instruction suggested 
by these exercises be given. 

Instruction sheets ought to be ])repared in advance of the lesson 
to l)e taught, and carefully checked through with someone in the 
employ of the ''om]iany competent to pass authentic judgment njion 
TJiem. The checking of these in ])reparation is a real co(u-(lin;i1 iiig 
duty of tlie part-time school instructor. When so passed, they shonhl 
be stencilled and sufficient copies run off to serve the purpose of the 
school for some time in advance. That is, there should be available 
a copy to give to each learner, so that she has at the end some real 
reference material to use when needed. Once the labor of preparing 
these has been exjiended, the instructional job of the teacher will l)e 
considerably lightened in the checking and follow-up part of lier 
duties particularly. 

Instructors will find in sections IV, A" and Xl of tliis analysis a 
large field for suggestive questions. 80 large in fact is it that the 
problem of the teacher will be not, what can I find to put in, but 
rather what shall I leave out? It is hoped that with such suggestive 
material at hand for use of instructors in the needle trade, and an 
assurance that these instructors can use it advantageously, the labor 
of compiling it will have been a service worth rendering to the cause 
of vocational education. 



70 



Part-Time Trade Preparatory School 
Job Instruction Sheet 

Needle Trade Lesson 

Job — Piece two do/eii i)(iirs of men's ])cijania jacket sleeves. 




Enlarged view of seam af XY 

^— 

(c) 



(b) 



Operations 

Note: Instructor will have iziven inslructii 
the nse and care of machine in prcxions 1 
knows the macliine and can ojierate it in rni 
stitchin*;-. 



II and demonstrated 
ns, so that learner 
ii' a straiii'ht row of 



1. Open bundle and check ed^es A and B of sleeve-pieces. 

2. Lay bundle of larg'er pieces in convenient position on la]\ and 

the other at left side of machine on top of table, having" the 
right side of both bundles up. 
8. Place smaller piece ontside on macliine riglit side up, and enter 
shoulder end of joining edge (if right sleeve) in lower scroll 
of folder. (If left sleeve, insert cuff end in scroll.) 

4. Place larger piece inside on machine right side up, and insert 

corresponding end of joining edge in upper scroll of folder. 

5. Start machine, and guide ]iieces through to end of seam. 

6. Repeat operations .'!, 4 and -") with next on top of bundles. (It 

will be the mate of the first sleeve to form the pair, and wilJ 
be run through from opposite end.) 

7. Continue operations 3, 4, 5 and 6 until bundle is all through. 



80 

8. Pull mass from behind machine, snippin<i- threads connecting- 

each sleeve, trimming shoulder end of seam when necessary, 
and laying sleeves in flat bundle (by pairs) on lap as trimmed. 

9. Tie bundle, and mark tag with operator's number. 

Related Instruction 

Shop Knowledge — 

1. The seam should be so placed as to lie on the back of the sleeve 

Avhen sewn into jacket, and lap of seam should face towards 
the back. What reasons can you give for this? 

2. Why should the smaller pieces be placed to the left of the 

machine head and the larger pieces in the operator's lap? 

3. AVhy check the A and B edges of the first two pieces ? 

4. Would it make any difference to you if you performed opera- 

tion 4 before doing operation 3 ? If so, what and why ? 

5. Why do you retard the lower or outside jiiece, and allow the 

upper to feed through freely .' 

6. What is the name of the goods you are using.' Is it cotton. 

silk, linen or wool? Is the i)attern woven into or printed 
onto it? 

7. AVhy is it suitable for the purpose for which it is used? Why 

do you think the purchasing department selected it ? 

8. In certain sizes of garments the sleeves may be cut with half 

of the bundle in one-piece sleeves, and the other half in two 
pieces. How do you account for it ? 

9. What length of stitch are you using ? Why .' What size of 

thread? 
10. To whom will the sleeves go after this job .' What will he done 
to them then ? Should the trimming operation belong to this 
jol) or the next ? Why ? 
Drawings 

1. In figure (a) of the drawing, what do dash lines "C" repre- 

sent ? Are there any such lines on the cloth ? 

2. Indicate the position of the "C" lines in figure (c). In figure 

(b). Where are these places on the scrolls of the folder? 

3. Is figure (1)) a sketch of a right or a left sleeve? W^hy? 

4. What do the two vertical lines in figure (c) mean? 

5. What difference do you find in starting the shoulder end from 

that of starting the cuff end into the scrolls of the folder? 
Which is the easier? Why.' 
Mathematics — 

1. Make a record of the time you start and finish the bundle. 

Subtract to find the time required. How many bundles per 
day could you run at this rate ? 

2. If the piece-rate is 5 cents per dozen, how much would you earn 

per day of factory length? Per week of factory length? 



81 

3. How many bniullcs wouUl you have to do in a day to cai'ii tlic 

average daily wa<ie of $2.00 .' 
■1. What fraction represents your daily rate in bundles compared 

with the average daily rate .' 

5. Which one of the folloAving fractions comes nearest to repre- 

senting your efficiency: i/s, y^, %, 1/2, %, %, v^. .' What 
would it be in per cent f 

6. How much are you being paid for this week's work.' If your 

earnings are indicated by your answer to question "J, how 
much is the company "out" because you are only learning 
how to earn.' How much are you yourself "out" because 
you are not yet up to the average.' 

7. If you spoiled six i)airs of sleeves irretrievably, and had the 

cost of the goods deducted from your pay, how much would 
you lose if the goods cost lO^/o cents per yard of 36" width, 
assuming that the i)ieces wei-e cut side by side in the most 
economical ari-angement .' 
English — 

1. Write in your notebook the meaning of tlie following terms: 

sleeve-pieces folder 

joining edge scroll 

shoulder end presser foot 

seam faces back tension 

cambric retard 

2. Head from some selected source about the manufacture of 

cambric. 

3. Write from memory a half page or more telling how it is made. 



82 

INDEX 

Page 
Section I. Introduction 3 

Section II. Methods of Preparatory Traininii' 4 

1. Pnblic part-time preparatory scliool. 

2. Factory vestil)nle school. 

Section III. Vocational Teaching 01)jectives 7 

Section IV. General Instructional Content S 

1. The Local Company. 

2. Manufacturing costs. 

3. Markets and competition. 

4. Business turnover. 

Section X. Common Factory Knowledge 12 

1. Tlie local organization for production. 

2. ]\Iatei-ials used in factory production. 

3. Eipiipment. 

a. Construction, operation and care of machines. 
1). Cafeteria and recreation rooms. 

4. Routing system. 

5. Card and ticket sj^stems. 

6. Employment and training. 

Section VI. Detailed Analysis of Certain l)e])artm;Mits 29 

1. Overall. 

2. Sleepingwear. 

3. Children's sleeper. 

4. F'olding. 

Section VII. Use of Job Instruction Sheets 77 






583 




. s • • , C^ ,0 



